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This isn't the first time I've showed up after everyone else went home, but for the record, here's a pic of my Gaplus board. No cuts on the traces.

I agree. I've upgraded to 4164 RAM on my Defender, Stargate, and two Robotrons. All good. Its a solid mod. I've made an adapter and bought a few pre-made. Never had any problems either way. Best of luck!

I just rebuilt the 20EZ in my Donkey Kong. I also rebuilt the sound board. I used this mod to reduce the hum. This is the sound board version with no empty spot for the capacitor (C379). So, I just re-soldered it under the board after I removed it and installed the new 50k pot. I didn't have...

You can remove the daughter card ribbon cable from the main PCB, then put the Z80 processor from the daughter card into the empty socket, and it will boot to Pac-Man with weird sprites. If this works, it probably means your daughter is card has developed an issue. That's what happened to...

Ok cool. The schematics don't seem show any connections to pins 13 and 14 on F4. So, what you observed is probably normal. Is probably worth it to double check the schematics tho. Be sure to check F6 and F7 too. Still hoping it's an easy fix for you.

Definitely verify that the address lines on the multiplexers at F4 and F5 are working with your logic probe, especially before you start replacing RAM that may still be good.

My SI had a similar issue. A RAM addressing MUX (F5) was bad. Thread link: Space Invaders garbled screen Hope this helps. Good luck!

Long overdue update. I haven't done any more experiments with flex filament (although I plan to). All my time was spent working on the molded silicone version. After playing with different arm lengths, the shortest arm design seemed to provide to best play action. So, I just started making a...

Owning these games means you can tune the controls any way you like or need, rather than having to accept whatever play action the machines in the arcade used to offer. Williams titles really need properly maintained controls to be enjoyed. How many first-time players got frustrated with Joust...

Thanks for the shout out. Pic of the latest rev attached. This version has a bearing press fit into the joystick hole in the switch actuator for better wear resistance. Seems to be pretty decent, and definitely cleans up slop and provides smoother play action than a worn original. No...

It's this Yoyi product: YOYI 3D Printer Filament I thought it was supposed to be similar to NinjaFlex, but I don't have any experience with flex filament. Which NinjaFlex product do you use?

OK update. I fixed my printer with a new LCD screen and can proceed. The original design worked pretty well, but didn't quite re-center assertively enough. So, I made two variants with shorter arms to increase the tension: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/media/spider-5-1-jpg.17333/full...

Yes. I built a cheap one with a HVAC vacuum pump and some spare parts: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/media/grommet-4-1-jpg.15641/full I built this for de-gassing when I was developing silicone grommets. It's crazy how much gas bubbles out of the silicone when you perform this step. It...

Update. Here are some pics of my attempt to use tougher 60A silicone: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/media/spider-4-1-jpg.17052/full I tried dyeing these black, but the deep ochre color really didn't change much. Since this silicone is stiffer, I designed these molds with skinnier arms to...

Thanks for all the interest. I don't think so. Since the silicone flowed through the channel and set up as one piece, it's not really a seam per se. As long as the two pieces are lined up, I think all its going to do is create a really minor cosmetic blemish where the flash is cut off. Even...

Yes. I like the fine detail the resin prints can achieve. However, I think these would print OK with a FDM printer too. My FDM printer is down right now (maybe forever). I'm probably just going to buy a new one. Some designs work better with FDM printers.

These took about a day to set. The excess flash rubbed off easily after curing: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/media/spider-2-1-jpg.16911/full The two-piece molds made extracting the silicone easier: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/media/spider-2-2-jpg.16912/full There was some additional...

While working on light action Wico grommet replacements, there was some discussion about using silicone to reproduce the centering spiders on optical Williams' joysticks. I played around with it a few months ago but got distracted with other projects. Some new discussion recently got me moving...

Look for a label like the one in the attached picture on the back somewhere above the door. This is the serial for my Space Ace. Welcome to the forums. Space Ace is another all-time fav for me. Good luck with your restoration!

Yeah. I used 2732s.