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Really nice catch!

The tube may have integrated rings. https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/k4915-build-with-a48xxx-standard-resolution-tube.540970/

+1 for fixing what you have. In addition to the potential CRT size differences that were mentioned, Nintendo games of that era use inverted video, so that's another initial hurdle for LCD.

Good news...Based on those numbers, that is an original medium res yoke, and hard to find. Looks like now you need to find a med res chassis to go with it.

Not like any K7000 med res that I've seen. It's missing all of the telltale signs. Are there any stickers or part numbers on the yoke?

Exactly what I was thinking. You never know what kind of random parts swapping may have happened with old games.

Can you post a picture of the chassis and yoke?

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/k4915-build-with-a48xxx-standard-resolution-tube.540970/

I'm in the same boat. I have one of these med res yokes and all the tabs were broken when I got it. Will have to give this a try!

and p.s....yes, it's standard res. I would start with a cap kit and flyback...and it might need a HOT. There are some good videos that @zenomorp has on youtube that could be a good reference (search for "Mike's Amateur Arcade Monitor Repair"). I would watch those before you start shotgunning...

post some pics!

You can look up the difference between standard res and medium res with a little searching (Example Here). Based on what you've said here, it sounds like you need to swap out the tube as mentioned above...that would include finding a compatible CRT and also swapping the deflection yoke from...

What's the actual chassis model? Post a pic if you can.

Check out post #7 of this thread!! :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

Purity issues are sometimes associated with yoke position. I've noticed that A48xxx tubes seem to vary in their shapes and the position of the guns/rings relative to the yoke. You could have a damaged tube, or it could be that the shape of your tube won't let you put the yoke where it needs to...

Have you done the basics? Recapping, header reflow, clean the pots, check the color transistors, etc...?

Glow can be hard to see...sometimes it helps to turn the lights off. You wouldn't get anything on the screen at all if you didn't have neck glow

You could swap IC4, but I'd probably pull it, clean it up and test it before just changing it.

Read the sticky thread from cadillacman about K7000s if you haven't. There are good tips on areas of the PCB that cause problems with solder pads, etc. What's the burn-in on that tube? APB?

Well...as excited I was about pot values, etc...the new Piher pots I was using turned out to NOT be the problem on the first chassis. Hoping to solve the issue on both chassis, I moved those old pots over to chassis #2 to see if the result was the same. It had no impact on the problem on that...