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I have one of the inexpensive guns (way down in this thread). I used Tractor Supply for the media which was quite inexpensive (Coal Slag I believe) I tried to control the mess initially with a large container.. but it was rather useless.. When I do it - I just let the material go into the...

Your PCB repair and deconversion: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/nintendo-pcb-repair-logs-x-4.555852/#post-5016684

Great work on that cab - it looks so good it looks fake :) and you are a restoration machine.. I know how fast you did that.. measured in days.. not months..

Nice woodworking .. Well done .. That is how you replace crappy particleboard.. Great stuff when kept dry IMHO.. But turns to crap when left wet. Still 1000x better than MDF. 👏 👏 👏 👏

Lightning speed..

I would hope so... :ROFLMAO: +Bondo used correctly - to fix surface imperfections.. not to replace giant chunks of missing wood .. love it.

Man you are fast..

Nice work. I wish more people used epoxy.. It's a better material for this work than Bondo. 👏 👏 👏

Nice work 👏 👏 👏 - be careful about the spacing between the fingers. Many edge connectors have east-west slop in them. It is very easy to have a pin in the connector straddle 2 fingers.. I often have to slice the copper just a hair thinner to get all of the spacing right. This is a bit...

I did a big Joust Restoration - I used Satin Black paint..

Interesting. @VectorCollector Your CPO seems colored like the Marco one. I'm (very) confident my original is original. It was silk screened and the lettering imprinted to the metal control panel which had never been repainted. The Marco one is just printed on vinyl and the Chomping one is...

It was a bit shocking..

Back to game operations: During testing - I had replaced F4, a 2.5A fuse and a 2A bridge rectifier on the power supply PCB. It is for the 'errant ball' kickout solenoid. First time I powered up the new fuse blew. Examining the game board and the actual solenoid... TIP120 blown out, R44 burned...

I have a standard paint removal heat gun, but I would have had to go find it. Too lazy.. My hot air station is in the shop. 10 minutes with hot air and a scraper and the old CPO peeled right off. I used Goo Gone with a single edged razor and some time to scrape all of the old adhesive...

The control panel had an easy decision and a slightly less easy decision. The original joysticks were so worn that they were not really usable. This replacement by Paradise Arcade is worth every penny. It is very smooth, no slop and it has brass bushings at the pivot points. In theory the...

Another major issue with this cabinet was the base. The machine has been dragged around on this one for years. Oddly the front and rear panels of the base were made from particle board and the side panels were made from MDF. Overall it wasn't really usable. Turns out black Melamine is...

The backside of the playfield is a different story - If you lay this down on the back without some sort of special support - the top 2 lamp holders will bust through the plastic back panel. Thankfully the bits were all in the bottom of the cabinet. This plastic back panel does not seem to...

*** Note: I formatted this on a PC. Not sure how it will be on a phone *** I didn't want to call this a restoration, because I would have fixed the cabinet cosmetics if it was.. So let's call this refreshing. Something I haven't done in quite a while - worked on one of my own machines! I had...

It works well - I have a 60G compressor and an inexpensive gun. The compressor gets used for everything. A dedicated blast cabinet takes up a lot of space and is a single tasker.. I've mainly done coin doors. I blast outside and do not recapture the media..

Next plastics I do, I'm going to try it..