Search results for query: *

These are interesting as they're the exact same layout as Roy Clark. Check your fuse holders and voltages. If they're good, try swapping out the PIAs. The boards in these things are super simple.

Aren't we all.. good luck.

Before smack talking pinside, maybe you should tell the people on this site how you scammed a bunch of people on there when your basement flooded and took advantage of the kindness they offered and purchased new machines with the donations then bragged about it. Judge for yourself...

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1308/Williams_1988_Jokerz_Operations_Manual.pdf The manual page 11 of the pdf definitely references an attract mode.

I believe there's tree fiddy.

Did you take that photo with a potato?

Have you verified your rom is good? From your test results and ticking noise is sounds like you're stuck in a reset loop. I'm not familiar with this circuit but typically there is a watch dog timer that produces that reset pulse if the game code doesn't reset it periodically.

Show me an AFM for sale for 5k.

How is it thousands more? The remake is selling for the same price as nice originals were going for.

I've got a beautiful original AFM but the AFMr definitely looks better with the large display. I'd be tempted to get one if I wasn't happy with my current machine. AFM will always be a popular title since it's arguably one of the best machines ever produced. There will never be too many. Buy it...

I'd like in this season.

Ni-wumpf is good and works well. Pascal is better. It depends if the extra 100 bucks is worth it. If you have an original power supply I'd probably spring for the pascal.

Subscribed to possibly get in on the next round.

Another vote for bat shit crazy.

I believe you have to use pwm to dim an led.

Ghosting is another problem. I'm referring to the decay of the ramp on and off period of incandescents vs leds. Many wpc games have gi dimming effects that work by strobing the gi. It works for incandescents due to that decay but leds are instant on and off. It looks like a strobe light. It's...

The big issue with LEDs is how they don't dim and they flicker really bad. Apparently an LED OCD board will fix that though.

I ended up getting a replacement h - drive board. I think the schematics in the manual are wrong. That fixed the issue.

I use a polk psw10 sub. You can get them from amazon or newegg for 79.99 from time to time when they go on sale. They sound great, are easy to wire up and will handle two pins each. There's someone on pinside that is producing a new board that will allow 5 pins to be powered by each sub channel...

I'd bet my money on this being the issue.