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Bougie tech right here ^^^^

Oh no, not again ….

Have you looked at the schematics? There are a number of chips involved. Nobody will be able to diagnose this by just guessing. Use a logic probe on D9 to see if you have activity. You can see optos light up with the camera on your phone. That'll at least tell you if they are active.

Which led is #1 versus #4? I’ve looked all over and couldn't find the answer. Doesn’t matter when #1 and 4 are lit up, but it does when it’s just one light. 😄

Issue: Outrun G07 monitor was really pink / red. I determined I lost green. Troubleshooting: After the Fonzie test and wiggling some wires, I pulled it. Fromm flowchart said to check a couple transistors but those were fine. Resolution: The header pins had a very slight wiggle. I didn't meter...

I was unable to get accurate signal readings on my oscilloscope on the address and data busses without an external trigger from the FlukeEmu. @Arcadenut helped my get a BNC added to allow that connection - without the need for the probe board. This is hugely helpful and very trivial to add...

Yep! It was D/E10. Looked ok in circuit with a scope but tested bad when I removed it. Thank you!

Not a trackball issue - I can plug numerous other boards in and it’s fine. Definitely a board problem. And pulling D9 and L9 takes the entirety of the trackball circuit out of the picture including the optos. These are the very last chips before the signals get dumped on the data bus...

I’ve got a board with one remaining problem I can’t solve. Everything works fine except the archer immediately moves upward on player 1 only. Player 2 is OK (I don’t have my bench wired for upright so it flips screen orientation like a cocktail and chooses the second set of trackball inputs)...

Lilypad has a link to lots of useful stuff, see it here ….. https://lakeside-arcade.com/portfolio/amazon-store/

It is very thin so it works great on the copper tape for edge finger repairs. You’ve seen globbed-up solder repaired edge fingers right? Not ideal. It also doesn’t use heat so that could be a plus in some situations. It is also a bit expensive and hazardous so you need to be careful with...

I have a working Robotron boardset and I'm here in kzoo. Could save you a trip if you were actually looking to come over, Brad. And ... if you do come to town, lets met up. I'll buy the beer. You've helped me on a bunch of stuff! @chessiv let me know if I can help.

I always like reading these. Well documented and helpful for others learning to repair boards.

https://www.tlrcoatings.com/ It’s two hours from you, but I’ve dealt with this guy a few times. He’s really good. I could pickup/drop off if he doesn’t do mail in service. Just send them to me. But I’m guessing you can find a place closer - Detroit should have a ton of shops.

Great result! I haven’t heard of that, seems like it did the trick.

Krud Kutter isn't much different from Simple Green. I used charcoal lighter fluid to get thick tar off a board, then simple green to get that off. If you have that around, maybe try. Someone said it was because of the naphtha, which I see recommended above as well.

Did you liquid tin the acid repair? How did that turn out? I’m trying to get my green solder mask paint to look decent on repairs like this. If not, I may abandon that and just go liquid tin.

I went with one from AliExpress, $6 shipped. Using it tonight to see if this Defender boardset stays alive for an extended time.

Totally agree. I assume the pokey is bad and try to set my buy price with that in mind. I do think people are knowingly passing the buck. I long for the $5 BallBlazer days.

I’ve fixed maybe 25 Atari boards over the last couple years and next to RAM and some TTLs, pokey is the most defective chip. PROMs fail a lot too. I think I’ve replaced about 8 pokeys so far. I have never replaced a CPU. I don’t have the history to say if it’s more often these days.