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Found another post on aussiearcade. That matches with my photos. https://www.aussiearcade.com/topic/81476-advice-wanted-with-chassis-issue/ Couldnt see the number becauses its caked with 40 year old dirt but thr chassis number is Pwc 958. Still can't find manual. I know I can read the caps...

About to work on cleaning up the monitor found in a rare japaneese tehkan cab. I can't ID it. Thr monitors neckboard says NEC PWC-799 YEC YE-35V N. The monitor works but I'm debating on recapping it but without a manual or more information about it I may just leave it alone and hope it never...

Thanks yall. I ended up swapping the neckboard from one a parts chassis but I will fix up this hacked neckboard right to keep as a spare!

So even though the vertical adjustment pot seemed to be fine, I replaced it anyway and bingo. Still not sure why it tested ok. All good!

Having problems tracking down an issue with a g07. The vertical is oversized by a solid inch or so. The vertical adjustment pot is jacked all the way to it's lowest setting. I was able to adjust b+ to 120 but the pot is jacked all the way up. Obviously something is out of spec but I can't find...

What do you use to glue the board together?

Looking for advice on repairing a g07 neckboard. I picked up a game that had a really cobb job of a neckboard repair. The board is cracked and whoever fixed it just slapped in some jumpers using what looks to be an old ac lamp cord. I plugged it in anyway to see what happens, and I get a deep...

Hoping someone has experience with a Toei-CM-A14 monitor. Monitor originally had a curl and was vertically offcenter. I just finished re-capping it and it took care of the curl but not the alignment problem persist. There appears to be no way to adjust the vertical alignment either by jumper or...

Necro bump. How do you check b+ on this?

I dropped an e-mail to Peter at arcadepartsandrepair, who has in stock every PP cap which often fail on this chassis, he apparently spoke with Ken (rip) and they both agreed upgrading R811 to a 1watt resistor is wise. So: -Replaced all PP caps -Replaced R811 with a 1 watt 560ohm -Replaced the .5...

And Ken's thread from 2009 would also suggest it's a 560ohm https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/tec-tm-623-b-w-monitor-repair-and-caps.85304/

To further confuse matters. I asked David Dehers to check his and he sent me this photo. If I understand the color code correctly isn't it a 560 ohm? What the heck...

Thanks for the advice. Now I'm really confused. I was referencing this manual which shows r811 as 2m ohm. Do you have one and can physically verify what value it is? https://archive.org/details/ArcadeGameManualTecmonitor/page/n7/mode/1up?view=theater

I capped it prior to the tube swap. It was fine with the original tube after the cap kit, then a backdoor fell on the neck when the monitor was on the floor, so I decided to finally try a tube swap - I really thought it was going to be more difficult!

Does anyone know if the problem as to do with the yoke position? I played around with moving it at different angles and aside from the rotation it didn't seem to make much of a difference. I probably don't want to mess with it again since it seems to be dialed in pretty nicely now, but just...

Nope, I've never seen a black hole like that, thats pretty screwed up. Mine is just overscanned, if that makes sense.

So after about 10 years of collecting I finally was brave enough to do a full on tube swap from a 19" tv. It was a success... somewhat. Its a k4900 that I broke the neck on. Removed the original tube, yoke, and rings. Pulled a burn-free tube from an old 19" TV, put the k4900 yoke and rings on it...

Anyone familer with the tm-600 black and white monitor? This is the most problematic monitor I own. Just blew r811 which is a 2 m ohm 1/2 watt resistor. Its a pretty heavy duty resistor to let go. I'm going to replace it but I'm guessing it's just going to go again. Anyone have this happen on...

Thanks I actually read through some of these threads. I understand changing the cap value will likely help but isn't that kind of a band aid to cover up a different part that may not be in spec anymore?

The yoke is a 258, so if I understand this correctly it matches with my chassis that has the vdamp pot and no vertical position wire. When I did the cap kit I replaced every cap with the same value. So I suspect it's a resistor out of spec in the v section?