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So I went back through and found that I actually hadnt finished soldering a diode >.< I finished that but it still now has nothing on the screen and no neck glow and no static on the tube. Does this mean maybe the flyback is what popped? How do I test for voltage where on this?

So I replaced a bunch of parts I got from @arcadecup and fired it up and actually got a full screen red image that said "no signal". I realized I forgot to plug in the cable to the vga input. I powered it down plugged it all in, then when I powered it up I heard a "pop" and smelled a bit of...

I was replacing T403 (the big yellow block), and it seems that one of the pins doesn't have a pad or trace to solder to. Is this to be expected? It had solder on it when I removed it. Also this ceramic resistor on the neckboard cracked. Will it still work this way? I'll probably replace...

Thanks, Ill take a look at those! What is the part you have circled that just says "1 (5W)"? Also, I found this troubleshooting sheet, and it says to check R424 and R462, but I dont even see them on this parts list.

Also when pulling it apart I noticed some burning on the video connector. But the board seems fine. Altho, the big blocky piece does look like it maybe has a broken bit at the base? What does this do and where do I get a replacement?

So I found a parts list and it looks like the broken part is this L402 COIL LINEARITY (20.5T) 009A3043-001 Does someone know what that is, what it does, or where I can find one? Is it fixable?

I just picked up an Arctic Thunder cabinet that I have no real idea the status of. It does power on with lots of leds but no sound and a faint purple line down the screen. The chassis has a tag on it that says WG 2792 and it does appear to match that, but also online Ive seen this game came...

I'm just using whatever came with my soldering iron. Although it's about to run out, is there a type I should buy?

Whelp turns out I had some cold solder on the remote board pins and it seems to be working now after fixing that. So until the next time it stops working...

Well I went back through the thread and realized this was actually my same problem the first time, so I removed the transistor, tested it and put it back in and now it works fine again >.< I did find that the pad was basically gone on the cap next to it on the edge of the board and I scratched...

Are you talking about this page? https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/tech-help/monitor-chassis-pictures/ There are 6 pictures for "sharp", and only 2 of them are for the KTMF model.

So I guess Im into this hobby enough at this point that I probably ought to invest in a TPG Is one of these better than the other? https://www.ebay.com/itm/135507663432 https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/tools-supplies/tools/craftymech-monitor-test-pattern-generator-2-mini/ I like the...

This is what's in it now. Is that not the right one?

@security0001 where do I find pictures of the modification required for this flyback? https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/monitors/monitor-flybacks/kfs-61088a-kortek-sharp-ktm-f-flyback

No, Ive just been using my 60 in one to verify and test stuff since its the most simple lol It was working fine! 😭

I've been trying to adjust everything :/ h hold seems to switch between this and like double the horizontal lines

Hmm, so I was adjusting the pots and while adjusting the gain on the flyback the picture was popping in and out. This suggests a bad flyback?

Here's a 60 in 1 with the dipswitch set to cga 15khz

So now this monitor just shows solid white like this. Any idea what that could be? Is it the caps I couldnt find? Im assuming/hoping the purple spot will be fixed by degaussing.

So this monitor WAS working fine (I literally have proof!), but when my friend came to pick it up it refused to display properly. This is what it looks like now I'm gonna start looking at the power supply for the next troubleshooting, but maybe someone knows what causes this...