Search results for query: *

A Panic Park game has a video issue that is not a monitor issue. When turned on, the game will appear to be playing blind but have some rolling interference lines on the screen. Over the course of about 5min the image will fade in and become progressively brighter but still seem to have heavier...

Cleaning edge was same result. One pin, the far ground pin, had been repaired by someone previously by bending a piece of metal and soldering which looks to been done well. Testing with another good AR2 board revealed the same result. The harness pins look good, but maybe there is an issue...

Yes, used a magic eraser to clean edge connector initially before posting as that did seem to be a large voltage drop. Will revisit edge and harness connector.

Currently seeing this double split screen with graphics issue. The graphics jump around. Game does not respond to start buttons (both are lit up) or go into test mode. Voltage on AR board reads about 5.08 and on game board about 4.68 on test lugs. Looking for some general pointers, thanks

Beyond voltages being correct, you might clean both game board edge and harness connector pins. Mine did something similar to that when edge connector did not make a good contact.

Swapping out the CTC chip with a good one now allows the game to boot, thanks

Issue: All original Tapper displays crosshatch and several color screens on power up and then keeps repeating. It doesn't get to the game. The voltages tested right around 5.03v on a chip on the board if I recall correctly. Testing with a switching power supply adapter gave a similar result...

The ICB is back on tap. The down switch control of the left joystick was in fact stuck in the always on position but didn't appear to be at first. I suppose in the warm up and attract mode it ignores the joystick controls so it wouldn't affect that part. I also found the top limit switch on the...

Thanks for your input. I’ll check the joystick. The wiring is the same as when it had worked just recently, though I’ll recheck if something came loose. So far it otherwise seems non intuitive why it would act the way it is. Test mode: the manual talks about placing a jumper wire on TP17 to...

This ICB had been working fine with new bands and the lower limit switches adjusted for spacing. Currently, the machine powers on fine and goes through startup as usual, but once you start a game the following occurs: The metal bar will go to the bottom and the ball is dispensed properly, but...

I think it just has a generic Taito control panel overlay. The cabinet info tag itself is in that first photo. I'd guess it is a cabinet made primarily for people to put kits in as many Dynamos were. I'll be working with it again today a bit.

I'll look to see about the drawer if it may have some further linked connection as it might. So far it seemed the drawer would move inside the cabinet, but the control panel seems bolted down somehow from the bottom about 2/3 of the way up on each side. If standing at the front of the cabinet...

I've been trying to take still photos inside though tough to see much, I'll probably try that again. It is a cabinet with a 33" monitor something like a Beach Head cabinet but with a 4 player control panel similar to a Konami game.

I tried again to look/feel for any latches on the front-bottom panel though couldn't find any.

Needing to open a Cadillac Game Action 33” cabinet control panel. It has a four player konami style control panel on it, and a pull out drawer like a Dynamo HS-5 cabinet. I cannot see or feel any latches inside the coin door etc, or bolts it would seem. A few cabinet photos are attached.

Depending on the Jamma switcher you use, it may be necessary to bump up the volts from the power supply so that the proper voltage is still present on the connector edges for each game.

I remember specifically looking for this artifact on other Burgertimes as I had that as well, and felt at that point they all seemed to have it. It was just on the first stage that I would see it.

I'm pretty sure it can with the correct adapter/wiring/setup as I have seen LCDs be used for the top monitor on a Playchoice 10.

thanks for the feedback

There are a few options being sold currently. Are any of them better/newer/more reliable than others that people would specifically recommend?