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I kind of don't mind the bloom on k7000, but some Nanao seem to really handle/eliminate bloom well. Monitors that REALLY don't handle bloom well are some of the replacement universal chassis. Other comments just for fun: Ones needing an ISO transformer K4900 - all but one have worked...

My experience has also been very positive using CRT rejuvenators, having saved tubes that have continued to perform for multiple years in a commercial environment that were previously wonky. Before they were very washed out looking or heavily missing specific colors and afterwards, the proper...

There are a couple games that use 20" and not 19" k7000, Tecmobowl with the two monitors is one of them. The shape of these tubes is flatter than the 19" and so when put together with the mirror system it makes a more uniform image.

Are G07 width coils actually compatible with k4600s? According to this old post, there is a statement that seems to say they are if you cut off the two support legs and install. Would be interested to know if this is the case. "Toss that junk Width coil in the garbage, and mount a GO7 one right...

seeing if anyone might know…

So far from research it seems maybe to be a Kortek or Sharp variety but I've not yet seen an exact photo. It is of about a 33" monitor. Photo attached, thanks More info: This post also has the same monitor (additional photos shown in their post) but they also had not identified it...

Thanks. Seems the value for the R80 resistor is similar to another chassis when pulled out of circuit and tested. Looks like the yoke on this tube is reading non typical for a K7000. H is about 2.0 but V is about 22. Usually with this multimeter I’ve never gotten over 13 for V for a K7000 25”...

Where is R80 located on the K7000 chassis? I looked through the manual but did not match it up. Trying to locate as I'm reading that R80 can cause a vertical collapse issue where you see about 3-6" of a vertical image (which is what I'm seeing). It is a P538 K7000. Thanks

What’s happening: Per the photo, there seems to be a type of power/brightness issue. The left side of the screen has a thick white bar and the remaining portion of the screen is visible but very dim (as if the flyback is turned way up for that first inch of the left side, but way down for the...

If other options are exhausted, might try a CRT tube tester if handy to see how the guns are.

is this a k4600? if so there is another pot on one of the daughter card, a horizontal oscillator I recall that can be very touchy that may need a slight turn

Thanks for your suggestions, I'll check out those out. I have not personally seen it display RGB colors. It runs currently like a game who’s monitor works but the game board is dead, and is therefore acting like it is not receiving video input.

Just an update, the neckboard has been swapped with another with the same result. Recapped by a previous person with 105 nichicons, new flyback, new IC1, new IC2, reflowed common elements per Mecha’s website also. This chassis has the riser card. I’ll see about comparing more components with...

Update: I have another chassis with the same issue that the contrast pot does nothing and in this case no RGB signals are going from game to monitor (tested with new pot and multiple remote boards and have used a test setup and also TPG to rule out faulty RGB signals going into the chassis). The...

Thanks, have not yet gone further with it, still have it on the shelf, though I'll post an update after doing so.

Currently the monitor is extremely blurry, adjusting the focus on flyback does not affect it, going to replace caps first and see where it is at and just checking ahead if replacement flybacks are available in case one is needed.

Yeah, those potentiometers did look a bit like a Hantarex and I had read of an Afterburner that had a Hantarex. Looks like the Sanwa PM1723C is likely a match. I see arcadepartsandrepair has a cap kit for it. Wondering if a source has a flyback for it as well.

The tube is a Toshiba 510WEB22 with Japanese characters and may be a 100v chassis perhaps.

This monitor is in an Afterburner Deluxe and looked factory based on the wiring. Just wishing to get a cap kit and potentially a flyback for it if possible. It works but it just very blurry and adjustments currently do not affect it but after a while it does get a bit clearer though not much.

Update: using a switching power supply did eliminate all of the dark rolling bands. When the opportunity comes, I'll likely install new caps/parts on the original power supply to attempt to use it once again. --------------------- A video didn't show the effect correctly, so I made an...