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Is it a K4600 per chance?

Okay. I'd leave that ground braid off the monitor frame and get the power supply all buttoned up. Here is how to do it properly http://www.therealbobroberts.net/acwiring.html http://www.therealbobroberts.net/basic-ac.gif

Is the power coming in to the cabinet going straight to the transformer? No line filter or fuse? Do you have continuity from the ground braid to the ground plug on your power cord?

Hopefully you only blew the fuse

Pull the fuse on the chassis and test it. I don't know how your game is frankenwired, but I bet you blew the fuse with that braided ground wire. Is the power at least coming off an isolation transformer? Might not be.

Beat me to it

I did that once. Still think about it every time I work on a monitor.

Ray is the best. Love supporting him and sending my business his way

All this info is good to know as I am about do do my first Matsushita rebuild and I too have the APAR ISO on my bench rig

Check those resistor values at R303, R306, R314 and R317. Also, if the curl mod has been performed on your chassis, you may want to look into undoing it, as some chassis reportedly do not need, nor like the curl mod. In other words, the curl mod can give you a curl, rather than solving one that...

Yeah, I've got one that does that too and I kind of gave up as it's for my pizzeria and not my home. It was also Pac-Man, so just a tiny bit of the corner of the maze was distorted. But recently I read about a series of resistors that are often incorrect that can cause the curl. R303, R306...

You obviously have tried adjusting the G. gain on the chassis pcb, but what about the G. BKG pot on the neck pcb?

I feel you @Vectorman I had to do 3 of them in a row. Didn't know the PCBs were so cheap and shitty on the 7203 chassis models, so I lifted a few pads with the desoldering gun out the gate. Switched over to solder wick and reduced heat for the remainder. From there it was just way too time...

Very easy to do. It is weighted towards the front of the tube, so depending how the monitor is removed ( from the front of the game or from the rear ) it could be awkward as you want to be careful of the neck of the tube. Also, you don't want to put any part of your body near the anode cup, as...

Wrong neckboard. Here is a K7203

If @zenomorp is taking on work, send it to him. If not, Chad at Arcade Cup. Heck, I'm pretty sure I got a good Hanatrex to test on. I'll take on the repair too. I feel it's the flyback.

Mine has a G07-CAO.

They got mildly warm, but never hot. I gave each of the 2 flybacks I replaced a solid 24 hour burn in. Both dialed in Screen and Focus smoothly. Nice weighted resistance and feel to the Screen and Focus pots. Quality flyback for sure.

First flyback is almost at a 24 hour stress test. Second chassis will go on the test bench after that. So far, so awesome.

TP1 is to the right of the blue inductor L101 at the top of your picture and it's right up against caps C101 and C103. The part blown out is L102, which is the same value inductor as L101 12uH 1/4 W @security0001 has a 10 uh 1/4W, but you can get a 12 uH replacement on eBay...