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Price dropped $3300

Put a few games on my Super Mario Bros. pin today. It still knows how to steal time.

$1400

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Still available

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Selling an original Tron arcade cabinet. It's in very nice, fully original condition with no restoration or repro artwork. Everything works and it plays perfectly. Price is $3500 shipped, or local pickup if you're nearby.

Spinner for me. When it's dialed in, the control feels razor-sharp, Tempest and Arkanoid basically come alive with one. Trackball's great, but the spinner has that pure, direct momentum I can't resist.

Price dropped: $1500

Price dropped!! $3500

The pin is in good working, flippers rebuilt. Plays fast, bright, and lively, just as it should. Cabinet is in tidy condition for its age with the artwork still looking sharp. Playfield is clean with no major wear, all rubbers replaced recently, and it's been well looked after. Just fancy a...

An original piece of arcade history. This cabinet once lost its way, converted long ago into another game, but has now been lovingly brought back to its true form. Restored with care, fresh marquee and side art, newly painted and repaired, every inch cleaned and reborn. It stands proud once...

I haven't tried a GT710 specifically, but from what I've seen it might boot the games, though performance can be hit or miss, the 710's pretty underpowered compared to the 630/730. If you've got one on hand, worth testing, but I'd stick with the 730 for smoother playback on those Raw Thrills titles.

I'd take a close look at the bridge rectifier or maybe a cracked solder joint around the flyback. G07s can be sneaky like that.

Pretty straightforward swap, both are Konami boards, so the JAMMA pinout is basically the same. You might need to flip the video sync polarity or adjust the sound wiring, but nothing major. Just plug it in, check voltages first, and you should be good to go! 🕹️

Try checking the carriage motor and reversing relay first, those are common culprits for blowing that mech fuse on the G80s.

You can definitely do it, but it's not a straight plug-and-play swap. You'll need a CGA-to-VGA (or HDMI) converter board to feed the signal from the game PCB to the LCD. Power and mounting will also take some tweaking. If you can post pics of your setup or the monitor you're using, that would help.

I ran into something similar on mine. Try holding the start button while pressing test to switch between banks A and B in the SmartyPi menu. If that doesn't do it, there might be a firmware setting that locks A.

Finally, some hard-hitting journalism we can all agree on! :D

Man, I feel that. Between work, bills, and rising parts costs, it's tough to keep up. Seems like every game I own is waiting on something too. If anyone finds a supplier for extra time and energy, I'll take a bulk order.