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WE1010NA. I bought it to replace my broken WESD51. Either one is a winner.

Hmm. That is interesting. Thanks for showing me that. For now it looks like using that Excel brand is working out well. :)

So literally 5 seconds after I posted the above, I tried to use a different chip brand that had a similar chip type. And guess what? It worked. Verified the chip is equal to the buffer. Very odd but I guess it’s a workaround. Settings I used are below:

Thanks, Matt. Sorry I didn’t get back sooner. Wound up going in to work last minute. I have it set to 28C16. Not giving me an option to erase. The actual chip number is AT28C16, but I’m guessing the “AT” prefix doesn’t matter. Screen setup is below:

So need a little help please; bumping this up. Got my AT28C16’s EEPROM’s finally. Went to program one of them and got an error. Tried another and got another error. Third, forth, and fifth errors. I am assuming that these erase automatically when you go to write to them as i don’t see an “erase”...

Thank you, gents.

Just a quick question before I spend money on chips I can't use. I need to burn new ROMS for a DK board and my Rally-X. I'd like to use EEPROMS instead of EPROMS, namely Atmel 28C16's for the DK that were recommended in a previous thread here. The documentation for the EMP-10 lists them as a...

Oh wow. Ok cool. I didn’t know they lasted that long. Now if i can only find a power supply that doesn’t shit the bed after a year. :(

I *think* I read somewhere that there are hard drives available that don’t need the key. Can’t remember for the life of me where I saw it and also don’t remember if it’s applicable to the version you have. Guess I’m not much help after all. I have a jade edition maxx that I’m running on...

Member here named CDJump does MCR repairs. Good guy.

So in case this comes up and someone searches for and finds this, the "5I" pots (both for -5 and +5) are to adjust the voltage going in to the IC's adjacent to them. Basically, the consensus is, if you can adjust your +5 and -5 without issue, then the 5I pots should not need adjustment. In my...

That’s kind of what I was thinking too but had me scratching my head as to why the “5v i” pot was labeled as a “current adjustment” which is next to the regular 5v pot. My voltage at the chips is 5.015. I’m just afraid someone monkeyed around with an adjustment they shouldn’t have at some point.

Rebuilt the PP7-B in my DK cabaret today and when I opened it up, I noticed that it looks like someone has been inside this before. The glue on both the +5 voltage and current pots has been broken off and I can see evidence that someone has adjusted it. I got my +5 dialed in nicely, but I want...

Honestly, I don’t even remember! I have two on my shelf that I marked as “N/G” that have been there for literally at least 4 years. I removed the batteries before storing them and just kind of left them there. I’ll have to fire them up and refresh my memory. I think one of them boots to...

Following as I have a four slot that needs attention as well.

The round pins look like size .084 inch AMP housings and pins. The top ones look like .156 inch pins and housings but not sure of the type/series.

Not sure about the numbers; I think I was able to find the exact match back when I bought them. Reinitialize in the sense that once you install the new chip, just go into the options menu and reset the high scores. I think I remember having to do that but can’t be sure. It was several years ago.

If you’re stuck for one, I probably have a couple extra laying around and I can just send you one. Let me know. FWIW, had same issue on mine and swapping it out and reinitializing fixed it.

You replaced the header pins AND the connector?

Yeah I love my inquisitor. I’ve had one for a while now and have used it a bunch.