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For the sake of posterity I wanted to post that I figured out that C416 is the width cap on this chassis. hopefully this info will help someone else in the future who is trying to figure it out

As the title suggests I have an older eygo g07 replacement chassis that I'm trying to change out the width cap on (yes I know an original g07 chassis would be the better option but at this time I need to make this work). The chassis layout is a bit funky but looking at it and a set of...

Sorry to toss in the towel but I was put in touch with a tech who works on these monitors so I went ahead and boxed it up to send off, I've been messing with this thing for over a week now and would just as well get another set of eyes on it, again thanks for the tips and things to check. for...

btw I wanted to say thanks to all who have offered ideas on this, I promise I'm not an newb, but this one has me stumped in the worst way.

When I check resistance between pins 4/7 and pin 2 on the op amps I'm getting resistance, not getting a dead short (if I'm checking that wrong forgive my ignorance, I'm not the best when it comes to sussing out logic issues), as for the dacs, i switched both with nos spares i had, made no change.

c4 smoked, on closer examination c15, c105, c13 and c12 were all visibly darkened before i replaced them, all of the tantalums have been replaced not just the ones that looked iffy, triple checked polarity and they all went in properly. diodes also check out.

I'm getting the proper +/- 25-26v going into the 7815 and 7915, but I'm not getting +/-15 out of either of them. when i first was seeing issues with it i checked the 7815 because i noticed it was super hot and it was reading around +4.5-5.7, the 7915 was reading properly, but of course it broke...

yes, the ccpu is working fine, tested it in a different cab. this was a working one day not the next sorta situation.

As the title implies I'm trying to track down a tech who'd be able to go over a b&w keltron vector monitor out of a cinematronics cab ( I already reached out to Jason Kopp and he's no longer doing repair work. at this point I've thrown everything I know about these things and taken info from...

Ok gang, I get the general vibe, please forget i ever asked the question, i was looking at it from the aesthetics not thinking about the logistics/environmental/health aspects of the undertaking. but can we all agree that it would've looked cool at least? :-p

its gonna sit in a corner of my work shop, and i figured it may break at some point but i wasnt planning on lugging this around when i started on it. i do appreciate the concern, i just thought it would look cool, wasnt going too far into the logistics and what if's of the idea ya know?

Hi all. I have a question that may have been asked before, but my guess is not. I was trying to figure out how to display all the tokens I've gotten out of games over the years and was thinking of doing the old 5 gal glass jug thing, when I had an a-ha moment and thought why not a necked crt...

So it was the bridge rectifier power regulator board, funny thing is I'd checked it before and it was putting out the proper voltages, guess it got stressed just enough to crap out on me after I'd recapped everything.

The thing in red was a repair done previously, looks like a bridge over a trace that was cut, blue I'll check and reflow.

The one that's bulging is the one that blew out, the kit is new just got it from arcadeshop, didn't know caps had dates codes on them

Not bam, more like it splits and shoots steam. I'll snap some pics and post once I'm home later

Hi all, kinda stumped. I have a g05-801 that's giving me odd issues. At first it had horizontal collapse, I could see that it was drawing images just squished into a single line. I Went over it and found that r718 was burned up on the deflection board. I replaced r718 with another .27 ohm 1 watt...