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Perfect, thanks!!

Here it is, if you cannot tell much about it I can take a few more.

Thanks, I really appreciate that. I believe I have both but I have an oddball chassis that I’m not sure about. Just wish there was a better way to tell if a yoke/chassis is a match

Just curious, if a chassis is paired with a yoke that is not compatible....does it result in just a bad image or does it damage the chassis?

Thanks for all the info! It's a shame the tube swap isn't an option, maybe I will run across a nicer tube at some point.

I guess all I need to do is a tube swap then should be good to go.

Thats great, thanks @DeLuSioNaL29 !

Thanks guys, so how can you tell a yoke is compatible with a chassis? I had always thought it was the pin out and the ohms. Just trying to learn, I have several monitors (most with burnt tubes) but I think I could swap a few here and there to get a few nice ones up and running.

Is a yoke that works on a WG K4900 compatible with a G07 chassis? I measured the ohms and it seems reasonable (H: 2.2 / V: 56.9).

Does anyone know if the Electrohome G07-CBO H Center & V Center Pot mod will work on the 13" G07-FBO chassis? Below is a link to the mod for reference. I've installed this a few times on a G07-CBO and it worked nicely - thanks...

Still trying to dial this in but getting close. My B+ is just under 107V but the pot is glued. Is 107V close enough to not cause any issues? In general, how far off does the B+ need to be for it to cause problems?

I have but I can keep trying. Is it a matter of finding the correct combination?

Your right...it didn't, lol

Here you go, the image is lower on the right side. It's not terrible, just annoying.

At least I've fixed my wiring issue but I still have the slant at the top. I talked to a friend of mine and he says his Frogger has the same slant and his has a K4600. Could it be something with the Frogger boards in general?

Hopefully this looks a lot better, I also swapped the C517 to the 220uf cap. There's also another mod that's described in the instructions from APAR. It's a sync mod upgrade that prevents horizontal curl caused by mismatched negative sync. Are you familiar with this one and based on my...

Thanks!! I do get my caps from APAR and I just found the extra 220uf cap that he supplied along with a note at the top of his instructions that says it should correct trapezoidal/pincushion image problems for some chassis. I'm going to reroute that wire and replace that C517 cap and go from...

Just curious, why does C517 need to be 220uf? I have a G07 guide that says C517 should be 100uf/16V. Don't get me wrong...I totally believe what you are saying...just wondering why it's changed from the original documentation...does it vary based on diff models of the G07?

Thank you @mecha for that info on rerouting that wire. I was afraid I was going to have to remove that flyback and that was the last thing I wanted to do.

I'll fix that wire, I had no idea that could be a problem. Will also check C517 and C518 - thanks!!!