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What no Star Castle? 😁 Don't want to taint your house?

Same. After reading the thread I keep thinking to myself things like: "I have the tools, knowledge, and expertise to wash my car but I don't always do that". That doesn't mean I'm not a car hobbyist. It just means that in that particular case I sometimes prefer to pay someone else to do it...

In my experience, biological fouling typically has more of a sour/bitter/ammonia taste and a smoother texture. Rust fouling has more of sweet/tin taste and more of a gritty texture.

I'm guessing you find low voltage at the lamp itself. I don't use free play ROMs, my machine remembers credits after I power it down, so I just put a bunch of credits with the service credit button from time to time and it's essentially free play. I see free play ROMs on this site that say...

Have you measured the voltage at the bulb?

In this thread: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/spy-hunter-controls-restoration-anyone.125876/ It says: The weapons van light is just like an 8 liner machine, the bulb assembly snaps out of the housing. Once you get it loose, that frees the black center section from the yoke, and you...

Here are pics of mine. I don't recall how to disassemble this. I recall seeing threads on Spy Hunter Weapons Van Button disassembly in the past. I think taking it apart there is some weird trick like just forcing it or something... understanding how it comes apart may help you understand how...

This post says it's a 194, which is 12V: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/spy-hunter-and-ge-194-bulbs-to-161.182258/

Here are some pics of mine which illustrate the above findings

The wires going to my weapons van switch are black/white and yellow/white. The wires going to my weapons van light are red/orange and green. Looking at my connector (with empty 1 and 2), it appears to me: 5: yellow/white 6: red/orange 7: green 10: black/white So, I think 5 and 10 go to the...

In my own case, it was cheap and easy to send mine out, which i did. I figure the expert knew better and had more experience than I did how to do it properly. That was 15 years ago. Still no problems. I think I paid about the same to have an expert refurb mine as I would have paid for the...

The best option is to use the original linear power supply. When they are rebuilt they are solid. There is some evidence that replacement switching power supplies even heavy duty ones can increase your chances of having nasty hum. I do not recall ever hearing a story about a bad linear power...

Same thing happened to me when I accidentally saw Nancy Reagan topless one time.

Same it, baby! SAME IT!!!!!

The proper values are listed in the manual. Do not pay attention to what people say their machine reads because people tend to use values outside the correct ones.

I would have plugged them in without cleaning anything other than the edge connectors. Half of my boards I can't see half of the chips anyway

Man this sucks. When I was reading your battery removal thread I thought you were being over cautious and you should just chop the thing off and get on with it. I guess you were right to be cautious. This does seem like a good reminder to completely remove a board before working on it.

I'm at 0 as well, and I've been in the hobby over 20 years with many atari games. I bought a few as spares a long time ago just in case.

Have you tried test mode?