Search results for query: *

Shorting the guns is easy enough. K on the neck stands for cathode. So you should see RK, GK, BK. You momentarily short out the cathode of the color in question with ground. Screen will fire that color.

You can swap the output transistors on the neck board to see if you're problem moves.

The jumper is to be used at your discretion. Sometimes it improves your ability to adjust/fine tune the image if you place the jumper left - middle - right. Its usually very slight in change.

I've been seeing the AI search results a lot lately. Don't recall when it started. But I think its either incorrect or worthless more then half the time. What a waste of tech. I'm guessing millions are reading the AI review as the gospel too.

Did you degauss with the monitor mounted inside the machine? Thats where I would start. Also confirm your speakers are shielded. I have had games with the speakers changed and they were cheapy unshielded units that caused similar symptoms. Also see if changing the orientation of the cabinet...

What game is it? What is the video output from? Have you capped the monitor chassis? Color bleed can be from to high out contrast/brightness/screen pot on flyback/ or RGB pot adjustments. Start by turning down contrast and brightness and see if it gets better. Does the pincussion move in a...

Well in a desperation attempt at getting a usable game I bought and installed a MODEL GBS-8200 CGA/EGA/YUV TO VGA CONVERTER and attempted to hook up an LCD in place of this 13" CRT. Not the norm for me as most the time I eventually get the CRT working. Well Centuri Phoenix doesn't seem to play...

Find out the model of the chassis so we can pull up a schematic and have something to go on. To me it sounds like he may not be testing the correct incoming power. Many foreign games fun on unique power supplies that output less voltage then American made games. But the testing is still the...

This is from the manual attached in the post above. But you should verify which model G07 it is.

Perfect B+ at 112vdc. This monitor is like brand new. Colors are phenomenal. Wish it was mine lol.

LM1203 out of circuit tested the same and is indeed shorted. C507, C506 and other in circuit components test good.

I'm still thinking this is an AFC issue but I've been enlightened that the culprit could be in the sync separator or horizontal oscillator circuit. I don't have an O-scope which I know would make this troubleshooting much easier.

My bet is the chip is shorted but I'll confirm when I remove it. Pin 28 is the same electrically as pin 1 (Vcc).

It looks like you were suspecting the same culprit that I discovered, a short on the 12v line. Correct me if I'm wrong but pin 28 Vcc of the LM1203 should have thousands of ohms of resistance.

Tested ohms between ground (pin7) and Vcc (pin28) of LM1203 on neck board. Sure enough its 18.5 ohms. I did this with neck board isolated and connected to rest of chassis just to confirm. So thats most likely my short thats loading down the circuit to power the horizontal deflection of IC 301...

Heaters - I have continuity between heater (neck board pins H5/G6) and connector CN501 pin 4. - I have continuity between CN501 pin 4 and CN701 pin 4 - IC301 (TDA2595) with CN701 neck board connector unplugged I get the proper 12vdc and monitor powers up with HV. I hear the HV squeel 15750 hz...

No video. No neck glow. B+ is 122vdc at D403. Pulled D301 (x-ray) with no change so its not in HV shutdown. Tested heater voltage on the neck at pins H5 and G6. G6 I believe is the other end of the heater voltage and is labeled as ground. I get no voltage a/c or d/c at these pins. Which...

Update: I sourced a parts board with an identical horizontal oscillator coil. Swapping this at L5 certainly made an improvement in horizontal sync. I can make adjustments and lock in with monitor out of cabinet. I have timed it up to 25 min of being locked in sync. But I have identified the...