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Now you need to T/S the monitor, firstly the fuse on the chassis. Then follow the flow chart. Note, if the fuse is blown, don't just toss another in; it will likely blow as well.

I think your meter is set to DC voltage; the ISO outputs AC

Your input wires on the EMI filter are correct. Where does the blue/brown wire in your hand go? The molex doesn't look right for the monitor. It should be coming out of the ISO The neck board guide is broken off; this part should be on the neck itself. It's common and not a problem...

So I know that sometimes US/Japan regions will use a different B custom chip on the C board. (SF2 turbo vs hyperfighting for example) This would require a romhack to allow the other region to accept the different chip. Not sure about this game. (edit) they do use the same custom...

Technically class of 81 is "Jamma" so power/video wise it's fine. However, player 1 button 2 is is the "start" button for galaga and the fire button for galaga is the player 1 fire. So this may cause odd issues with other games...

I would start with all the transistors; pull them and check them for shorts.

I had a similar repair: https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/fixed-chinese-hack-forgotten-worlds-conversion-audio-broken.24020/

https://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Bally_Midway/Mappy_Parts_and_Operating_Manual_(Apr_1983).pdf Says .001 microfarad or 1000 picofarad *edit* @Digindug82 beat me to it. cross-reference this thread: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/mappy-reset-circuit-bad.117254/

My limited understanding is each PAL is like a key to the bank of ROMs it is paired with. Obviously you can't move them around the board and you also can't swap in one from another board unless it's the same version as the other. So in the case of Champ/Hyperfighting, the red PAL is for the...

Respectfully, if it was done right then it should work for years without issue. We have a lot of experts on K7000 here and if you stay curious and friendly, I bet a local member might even drop by to check your tubes, etc. This is a preservation forum, asking about how to convert to LCD is...

Vertical grade only adds a bit more thickness. Countertop is much thicker.

Wanted to chime in and mention that the Red can DAP adhesive is the solvent-based and has a shorter setup time, but you do need to allow the drying time before applying the laminate. Note the Green can is the water-based and has a much longer setup time. My guess is the solvent evaporates...

True, i misspoke.

Thanks for the pic, looks like mine was made on a Friday: Driving me crazy because the notched in on that type of molex socket is always hot on k7000 monitors too. Easy enough to de-pin and switch.

I’m replacing the Plug on my DK and noticed that the main cabinet fuse is placed on the neutral line. I’ve always been under the impression (Bob Roberts) that the proper thing is to fuse the hot side as it is better/safer. Am I missing something? Isn’t would be easy to flip the wires since I’m...

IPA, with the Transistor out it still in short though :(

Ug, gets worse and worse

I don't think I can do the finger test; the PSU shuts down when voltage is applied.

I'm having a similar issue. Have a 2-board DK that worked mostly fine until I cleaned it and now I have a 134ohm resistance between ground and the +5v rail. Is there an easier way to figure out the source? I have a modern switcher with an Arcadeshop adapter so whenever the Video board is...