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Well, look at you, with an alias/username like yours, of course we expected 100% success with that PCB! Nice job.

wedge base type GE #194 or 161

If you press on the EPROMs do the sprites animate/flash? I have that big square PCB which seems to exhibit that issue but don't have the guts to change all sockets, so much work.

I don’t have any input on the technical side, but would love to see what this cocktail looks like when you get there. Thanks. Yes, this is the only machine I knew about that had a tape unit; that I guess rewinded by itself. I never looked into the details, but I played journey upright when I was...

I believe the test which is on the audio/regulator board that’s inside the top coin box case area.

Easy on me guys, I did not ignore anything/anyone. Your knowledge is why I'm here. I'm not here to sell things for a nice profit. I usually post an update on all my threads as you can check, but might've neglected this one as the issue went away after reseat and I don't put much time in the...

Turned game on lately for a few times and it developed a new defect. In every screen, I see the different color bitmaps there in the same location as seen in screen capture. I guess this is not an eprom problem but some sort of RAM issue - what do you think guys? The player and enemy collision...

lol on the cheaper than McDonald's comment! OK, I'm intrigued by that hybrid DMM/scope. Maybe that's a good buy for me to upgrade my testing tools. Thanks.

I'll take your suggestion if you see anything decent on amazon.ca (or eBay located in Canada) for a new DMM. Thanks.

In the 200 scale, I see 3.3 so I guess it's bad? In the 2K scale I see .003. Suggestion for a new digital multimeter for average old hobby will now be considered then, lol. Thanks.

Auto-Range DMM: no I shouldn't be getting one of those. I like to learn things the hard way. When I was in university over 30 years ago, every kid in my engineering class with a little cash had one of those fine HP calculators. I did the work by hand and I graduated with 95% in all my math...

Yes, as specified in my initial post, I pulled the other one out of circuit. No, it’s not a schematic that anybody has. It’s a old custom board.

Here is a better picture another place on the board. The one on the left again measures 4.7 ohm Not the same as the 220 ohm with the brown band on the right. Thanks.

That is the one on the left. The one on the right is not brown. It’s gold.

So in the attached picture, on the left is a red red brown resistor and on the 2k setting on my ohm metre it measures .222. On the right (pulled out of circuit to be sure) this seems to be a red red gold resistor, which my understanding is 2.2 ohm resistor, but it measures 4.7 on the 200 setting...

Hello. You might want to post which model power supply it is. Are any of the voltages working?

It’s great when one has spare parts to be able to diagnose in that way.

Alas, the end pieces are not available right now, so until someone makes them again, have to try to save them or buy a $300 NOS joystick. The pin sizes are correct. 5/64 for the actuator and 1/8 for the ball. Maybe I should have tried to spray some WD-40 in there and leave it a few hours to...

Well, I had another four joysticks on my original Gauntlet panel now to clean up and this time, it was a real bitch. For 2 out of 4 of the bottom actuator balls, I can’t get the pins out and even broke the tool (after un-denting the dented tool when I pushed out the pin out of my previous four...

Man, pretty juicy conversation considering the OP just asked a diode question! LOL Thanks for the tech education guys. I never really touched my Crystal Castles for years but now I’m wondering if I should clean the connector.