Search results for query: *

No. Hate to see this.

Was it the Sharp XM-2001 that had the Odd Behavior, or was it the members of this post? ;-) Good job on the capacitor fixing, enjoy whatever game you play on this.

Not to bust your bubble, but I applied 20-year-old, stored on my shelf, Bob Roberts cap kits on two monitors nine months ago, and they are working fine ;-) But I have a fancy ESR meter to test them first at least and I do buy high-quality for newer stuff when it doesn’t cost a fortune to ship...

Can you show us the connections on the little Audio PCB board? Sounds like the 2 sets of plugs were reversed.

I have both monitors in my Mario Bros. and Donkey Kong Jr. machines here. You are correct on 1 cap being different (I think there might be a second one though). My 20-EZV has an inverter board also. The 20-Z2AW has a degauss switch mounted in the back on metal neck board protector frame.

Thank you for your education. I believe I bought this one from Bob Roberts like 15 years ago but never got to use it yet. So which one do I have here?

Can you guys explain what these rejuvenators do exactly? I never understood it. Thanks.

Oh trust me they're way too burnt but sorry I already cracked the neck nipple and boxed and put in my truck for a recycling centre tomorrow morning. Anyway, there's no way I'm gonna ship these things to anyone. Hmm, odd then that mine works as your 2ohm and 15ohm don't match the measurements on...

OK, I got back to this project three months late, but I now managed to test on another monitor and the chassis gave me the same type of image. Both these monitors have badly burned in VS Tennis and I guess the yokes took a beating. Now, because I am a freak, I also had another monitor, this one...

Maybe a stupid question for someone of your fair knowledge, but have you tried banging on the chassis to see if anything goes back to normal temporarily?

So is the voltage in the anode coming from and connected to the filter cap or is that just stored in the flyback or the tube itself? I never quite understood that part.

Not a problem for me to support the vendor above at $7. But I agree that one might as well change that filter cap while we're at it (for cap kit) since it's gonna last for 25 years anyway. But then some other fellow forum member will tell us that we shouldn't replace what is not broken and...

I agree but they are $7 these days ;-)

oh yes, that’s exactly the kind of screen image I see. OK I will pull out another monitor/yoke that I have in my storage locker this weekend and get back to you. Hopefully, the other one is good.

How do I test to see if this Yoke is good? Can I use an ohm setting multimeter (measure between red green blue and yellow wires in some way)? 2 Nintendo Sharp XM18 chassis are giving me parallelogram type image and now I am thinking it is a yoke issue. Or maybe magnetic rings as I see...

OK, I have proof from a few spare monitors here that the correct values are: C409 - 220uf16v and C405 - 1uf50v Furthermore, C409 voltage rating (if bumped) needs to stay small to fit beside C401. I will email the last vendor who sold me the kit in case they want to perfect. Thanks.

I bought some cap kits lately which list C409 - 100uf50v and C405 - 330uf50v I have 3 monitors which all have C409 - 220uf16v and C405 - 1uf50v (enclosed picture showing one of the 3). Those are huge differences in microfarads. What do I use? I can't really find the parts manual for the 18...

Lineup with what, the wider or narrower burn-in?! Again, I don’t see the point, but I do admire you guys for thinking/saying that you still can play a game on this monitor and that’s just fine if your eyes are happy with that feeling OP. Thanks.

Oh, come on guys that screen is garbage. I mean, the burn-in even shifted probably due to the drying out Caps (and screen shrink) over the years so there is a double screen burn! Now I understand if you're concerned about the environment and you don't want to recycle stuff but if there is one...

Hi. No, the width mod kit won't do it. I read some more threads on this fine forum and came across info that shows that I should be populating C531 and C532 poly caps. What is odd about that is that this chassis has the original FBO flyback A19183–B and those 2 caps (or one 42 value one) were...