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I have a marquee here (but not a machine) and only ever saw it being in plexi. But this thread has me thinking now; as the only Bally/Midway glass marquees I have seen/own are: Spy Hunter (upright and sit down) Mappy (dedicated and conversion) Jr. Pac-man (dedicated and conversion) Up ‘n Down...

I see, thanks for the feedback. Then you got to use the a brass or steel brush and pain stakenly do them manually.

Just use a Tumbler that is used with the walnut shells to clean pinball parts. I’m sure they’ll come out pretty nice.

It works, but I believe there’s like some speed delays, for example in the animation at the end of the 1-1 world when there are too many things on the screen. At least that’s how it was on mine. So keep it on right side.

Well, some guys get all the luck don't they? Two machines huh? Perfect for Gauntlet and Gauntlet II restorations. OK here you go! 60x49.5 cm overall 3/4" press wood (18cm) The remaining notch at end that goes on bottom is 10x7 cm

Beautiful indeed. I recently re-watched the Tron and Tron:Legacy movies and wish I can own that arcade machine now.

I saw your other thread on the PCB repair and admired you enough for that! But for this, I mean why?! Why not just start over with brand new presswood since the art and everything is completely destroyed anyway. I'm still admire you for wanting to do this, but I would just learn from the cabinet...

There used to be a ‘hammer tone’ type of spray paint can finish that was sold at average hardware stores at some point.

Oh yeah, that’s a beast alright! Thanks for sharing. Yeah by mylar I mean not a sprayed clearcoat, but like a thick mylar that goes on a pinball playfield. I never played in a sitdown Spy Hunter, but I did in an environmental Disc of Tron and I remember the overlay there being completely...

I have a comment. I know this is about the arcade hobby but I would be so curious to see what’s under that car cover! OK back to the lobby, I’m thinking, maybe for this kind of application, you should put a clear mylar over the overlay to protect it, what do you think?

Original. I don’t really see what an eight ball has to do with Spy Hunter.

oh and arcadefixit.com still has those available!

Upon looking a bit closer, I realized that it is not just the end ball actuator that may have gotten a bit thin but also the inside of this piece has almost a millimetre missing from usage and probably lack of grease.

And darn I must’ve missed it here for sale. NOS probably 10 years ago when I wasn’t very active on this forum.: https://arcadefixit.com/product/atari-parts-1970s-1980s-early-1990s/peter-pack-rat/nos-area-51-gun-trigger-spring/

Oh yeah, that's the klov member who sold me the t-molding and is selling these other nylon joystick parts: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/176705188816?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=TmCer4iwRg6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=pOg-pIlwSG6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Those ones are not...

Guys, has there ever been any reproduction of the little end piece that goes at the bottom of the joystick shaft for these? I noticed that my main gauntlet panel joysticks are probably 1mm too used up (thin). One might even have a small crack. I’m sure this leads to a slightly longer push...

Rebuilt (well just cleaned and re-greased) the joysticks - what a bitch to remove the pins to disassemble them. Just waiting for a reproduction harness I ordered from a talented fellow forum member to have a Gauntlet II dedicated CP.

Yes, but the arrows are in the spider creature’s body so that is evidence that somebody is using a crossbow! Lol

All right, for the record, I finally took the time to apply both an overlay and some reproduction tmolding that I got from a fellow member. I understand how hard it is to remove the tmolding now and hence it would’ve been impossible for an operator to want a stick an exact sized overlay on...

The weld is stronger than the metal itself (if I remember right from my father’s teachings - he used to make trailers). It should never wear out again.