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I'd like to know too. Did you order one? If so, how was the fit, angle of the bend, and did the level of tint match the originals?

The best product I know of for cleaning out the ball bearing pivot area of a Nintendo joystick is carburetor cleaner. Stuff like WD-40 will work, but I don't know of anything that works faster than carburetor cleaner. Alternatively, a very effective and very cheap solvent is gasoline. It is so...

You can get them off-the-shelf at any hardware store. They are short flat-head machine screws; metric, if I remember right. I bought some for one of my Nintendo joysticks at my local small-town hardware store. Just take your joystick to the hardware store and you'll find screws that fit.

Carburetor cleaner. I don't know if it is safe on the plastic parts or not, but it is fine for the steel. Carburetor cleaner is extremely effective on grease and grime (often without even having to scrub), and it is cheap. The most important part to get as clean as possible is inside the...

That comes from a PlayChoice-10, which of course is the same cabinet. Punch-Out, Super Punch-Out, and Arm Wrestling all used a 1-piece tinted plexiglass bezel with a black border on the inside and a bend in the middle. I believe the reason for the glass bezel on the PC-10 had something to do...

MESS emulates consoles and home computers, not arcade games. As far as I know, MAME is the only emulator that does Punch-Out and Super Punch-Out. According to some people who have looked into it, the MAME punchout.c driver (used for both PO and SPO) is old, messy, and could use a complete rewrite.

Super Punch-Out and Punch-Out in MAME are horrible. There is input lag, the audio is out of sync, there is at least one incorrect sound effect in SPO, and there are glitches that randomly skip sections of what the announcer is saying before each fight. Is SPO a game that you actually care...

Yeah, typing directly on top of a scan of the text, along with learning how to use this tool: Is the only way to do a reproduction right. Text requires the same attention to detail as the tracing of the artwork itself, that is, if you're trying to make a reproduction rather than a personal...

This is an original from my SFII machine: In addition to the "your're" typo, whoever typed that reproduction out also used three en dashes (---) instead of one em dash (—) like the original used. He also didn't replicate the original typesetting in general, giving it that "typed in MS Word"...

I already did that, and it worked perfectly, but I still wanted the original fixture back in its place. I'm the same way about the original power supply as opposed to a modern replacement, or pretty much anything else for that matter (as long as the original solution doesn't have inherent...

I'm glad you were able to find some. I've heard of more than one person who simply threw theirs away after replacing it with a hardware store fixture. By the way, from what I can tell, the ballasts in these Nintendo fixtures are simple magnetic ballasts (which are basically just coiled wire to...

Nice. I wonder if the ballast in original Nintendo fixtures is prone to failure, and if so, if suitable replacements are still being manufactured anywhere. The lamp, starter, and ballast are the only components in these fixtures, and if you had a few spares of each, the fixture should be set for...

Same here. I always wanted to put the original fixture back in eventually if I could ever find the lamp and starter it needed, so I definitely didn't want to hack any wiring in the SPO machine, nor did I want to steal the cord from my original fixture. I didn't even want to make new screw holes...

How many of you are using original Nintendo marquee lamp fixtures? When I first got my Super Punch-Out machine in late 2005 (which was also my first arcade machine), I wanted to use its original marquee lamp fixture. It had no lamp at all, though it still had its starter. I started this thread...

There are other places that carry them. Just do a Google search for the part number. For example - link.

The ones I ordered, which were identical to an original one on my Atari Missile Command, were made by Richco Plastic Co., part number SRB-R-6. Here's a link.

How do you like the reproduction restrictor plate compared to the originals? In my experience the reproductions are much smoother along the edge of the cutout section, which improves the feel of the joystick overall. I consider them to be a worthwhile upgrade even if you already have an original...

Only if you can find one you want locally. If you can't, then even a free Dig Dug would cost a couple/few hundred dollars to ship to you. Plus, restoring/refurbishing a game is a fun project. Also, it can be done gradually; i.e., $20 here, $30 there; as opposed to the lump sum payment that is...

Only if you can find one you want locally. If you can't, then even a free Dig Dug would cost a couple/few hundred dollars to ship to you. Plus, restoring/refurbishing a game is a fun project. Also, it can be done gradually; i.e., $20 here, $30 there; as opposed to the lump sum payment that is...

Plain old Happ Pushbutton With Horizontal Microswitch is what an SFII: CE would have had originally. Blue for jab/short, white for strong/forward, and red for fierce/roundhouse.