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The socket on your boardset is original, and there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with it. Your daughter board is a reproduction from Mike's Arcade. The legs have a square cross-section, which is correct, but it looks like they are all covered in solder; there are even some solder blobs on...

It has worked fine since 1984. I have two SPO boardsets, one with an original daughter board and the other with one of my own reproductions, and they both snap into the CPU socket tightly. You can't pull them out easily; I use a screwdriver to pry one side up a little and then pry the other side...

Are you sure you're seating it all the way into the socket? Sometimes it feels like they won't seat down any farther into the socket but they will. If you haven't done so already, remove the CPU PCB from the stack so you can set it on a table for support. Position the PCB so that the little...

This is a post I made in a thread where a Punch-Out was having a backwards letters/numbers issue on the lower monitor: The problem is probably on the BAK board, since it's responsible for the background graphics. I know for a fact that a bad chip at 5J (which is either a 74LS378 or a 74LS174)...

The problem is probably on the BAK board, since it's responsible for the background graphics. I know for a fact that a bad chip at 5J (which is either a 74LS378 or a 74LS174) on the BAK board can cause graphics corruption on the lower monitor that looks like your screenshots in post #3, as well...

I removed the factory jumper wire and resistor again and ran a jumper wire like this: I think that's the right path to reinstate the cut trace, because my non-cut-trace board has full continuity between those two points. However, I got the same results as before when I tried the 378: a lot of...

I guess the "SB" ones could be Signetics, or they could be fake Signetics. The "S" is in the same type of font as the Signetics logo, aside from it being lighter weight than on the PROM Nintendo used (which can be assumed to be legitimate). If the brand isn't what's causing the difference, then...

Maybe it's the brand. Nintendo used Signetics 82S131 (I removed the factory label from an original PO one that went bad years ago): I have two sets of non-original color PROMs, one for PO and the other for SPO, both of which produce thin-line glitches. The non-original PO set uses...

Well, I'm out of ideas for the cause of the hip glitch, because both SPO video boards now have all the same types of chips yet one still has the hip glitch. I had better luck with the BAK board glitches though and it is indeed the aftermarket color PROMs causing them, or at least, largely in...

I removed the sanded chips at 4E and 6T from my non hip glitch SPO video board and replaced them with marked 74LS04s to see if that would make it produce the hip glitch, but it didn't. There was no change. I guess it's good to know that the sanded chips are just regular 74LS04s; no idea why they...

Mere gainsaying. I already said as much. Circuit breakers (or fuses) are inherently part of the equation. Where are you going to use 120 VAC electricity where there are no circuit breakers or fuses in the equation? In any case, you're the one who brought up NEC code, which refers to the...

I heard back from him: his hip glitch SPO video board has the same 74F283s at 2J, 3J, and 4J, and marked 74LS04 chips at 4E and 6T as his hip glitch PO video board and my hip glitch SPO video board. My two non hip glitch boards have 74LS283s at 2J, 3J, and 4J, and sanded mystery chips at 4E...

Those values are for wiring the outlet, which are typically much longer runs of wire than a power cord that you plug into an outlet. The longer the run of wire, the more cross-sectional area the wire needs, all else being equal. Also, hardly anything that's intended to be plugged into a...

I'll let him know about it potentially being a ground loop. I tried replacing the 74F161s at 3F and 4F on my hip glitch video board with 74S163s and there was no change. The only other differences are the 74F283s at 2J, 3J, and 4J in my hip glitch board vs. 74LS283s in my non hip glitch...

That's bizarre. Zallard doesn't use a switcher. He uses a supergun. The 2 video signals from the edge connector go into a pair of Mike's Arcade color inverters and those output to a pair of JNX Stryder RGB-to-NTSC converters, which go to a pair of TVs via S-video. I suppose something in that...

I just found out that it can show up on PO. This is a screenshot from a direct-feed recording from Zallard's PO boardset and it has the hip glitch, same as his SPO boardset has, and my main SPO boardset has: I think it's safe to assume that the hip glitch isn't due to a faulty component...

18 AWG is enough for anything you can power from a typical 120 VAC, 15 amp circuit breaker, assuming it's not a particularly long run of wire. For example, if it's a 100' cord and you're powering a 1,500+ watt device, you'd probably want 16 AWG. Just make sure it's good quality wire that's 100%...

Yeah, I was thinking that too, though some of the BAK board-related glitches are on the upper monitor, i.e., the ones I called "Fight No. glitch" and "Scoreboard glitch" in post #20. Also, I've been talking to Zallard1 about his two boardsets (he has a PO and SPO), and he gets sort of a ghost...

-01. All of the PCBs in all three of my boardsets are -01. Very interesting post. It can't be something inherent to the -01 design causing the New Play and other associated thin-line glitches, because my main SPO boardset has none of those glitches whatsoever. The only glitch it has is the "hip...

With a properly working board, when you lose you only get the flashing "THE END" screen if your score isn't high enough to make the high score list. If your score is high enough to make the list you don't see the "THE END" screen because it goes straight to the screen where you input your...