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It was seated correctly, but I somehow pulled one of the pins. I didn't see that until I swapped the harnesses and went to put the Mike's Arcade harness away. Meaning the harness was fine, and I messed it up. Didn't mean to throw any shade at Mike, who is awesome. I just ordered a control...

Got it! It was the harness. I swapped in a Dokert harness and now it's locked in again. Thanks again, @mecha!

> that looks like video ground is missing. Thanks. That points to the harness, or the harness connection. I'll check that out. > something is getting lost in translation with your 5 adapters and harnesses I don't have 5 harnesses and adapters: that was the point of rewiring the cabinet. I...

I rewired the cabinet for my Donkey Kong. It had been converted to a switcher, and the cabling/harness was a rat's nest. I previously recapped the monitor using APAR caps, and it was locked in. I rewired the cabinet with a Mike's Arcade harness, using an original Nintendo PP-7B power supply...

My Galaxian upright has a K4600

Done. Zero blue. I also lifted R413 (to make sure I did R415 correctly), and got a red screen. So it's the tube. What are the chances a rejuvenator will fix this? I appreciate everyone's help on this: I have learned a lot about K4900s.

I pulled the monitor and I've been testing it on my bench with a (handheld) TPG and JAMMA power center that I built (with isolation transformer, etc.). I just hooked it up to a RiddledTV JAMMA Tester with Test Pattern Generator: no blue. So it's looking like the blue gun on the monitor.

Picked up a Q*Bert with a K4900 (4-pot) that I'm restoring. Here's the thread. I tested the monitor with the original chassis with my TPG: no blue whatsoever. Red and green are fine. I swapped another (untested) K4900 chassis in: same exact results: no blue. I recapped one of the chassis...

Read the fucking room. This is the Videogame & Arcade Preservation Society. Go spam this shit on Facebook.

I now have five K4600 monitors in my arcade, and had been wrestling with issues on some, mostly sync-related. I decided to dive into K4600 details, trying to improve my knowledge of them, plus increase my overall troubleshooting/repair skills. So I acquired a box of K4600 cards (marked...

You still can. I last made an order with Bob/Alice in October. http://www.therealbobroberts.net/harn.html That harness is amazing. I may order a few more to have extras on hand.

Agreed. They are intmidating, but I have learned to love the K4600.

(Easiest k4600 guess the burn ever, BTW) I got it in a Galaxian with original T-molding.

I've been meaning to build a Jamma/monitor test station for a while, based on Bob Robert's design: http://therealbobroberts.net/acwiring.html I ordered the parts, and they sat on a shelf for a year or so. Then I had three K4600s that needed work (and I got tired of trying to test monitors in...

I hit it with a hair dryer, and the diode pulled out fairly easy. It just pulls out of the two cups, as I suspected. There are springs in both of the cups that also remove with some gentle pressure. The spring on the board side was rusted, and both are soaking in vinegar now. I will solder the...

I'm recapping the 19v2000 in my Asteroids. It works fine, but "breathes" in and out a bit (expands/contracts), and the lines jump once in a while. First time working on a vector monitor. I've read the B&W Vector FAQ, and this entire thread. I recapped the deflection board (including the filter...

I have adjusted everything, and can lessen the effect, but can't make it go away entirely. Setting the black pot to dead center seems best. Going up from there makes the top brightness worse, going down makes it better but darkens everything. Adjusting the RGB and brightness pots can't fully...

I adjusted V. Size up/down earlier, and it's not folding over. I can actually stretch the screen where there's no brightness at the top (but then the top/bottom is chopped off and you can't see the score when you play). I'll tweak the black, blue, etc., tomorrow and report back. I think this...

B+ reads at 125.5 volts. The original VR501 is epoxied in, hesitant to mess with that since that may be close enough. I do have a few spares (P1028) on hand in case I need to adjust it and break it.

I acquired a Crazy Climber with a K4602 monitor. I has the older p302 video card, with non-standard pinout. See Ken's post here: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/k4600-video-interface-board-information.204208/#post-1810447 I recapped the monitor, including the filter cap and the c621...