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What’s the story behind the disc? How did you get it, from who, and where did it go?

Build a dummy load for testing and troubleshooting. If you are working on PS'es, this is a must. You never really know if a PS is functioning properly until and unless you test it under load. Otherwise if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Cool. Save the old connector and pins, as you can use those pins to repair others in the future. It's rare to need to repin an entire connector, as at worst you may only have one or two pins that need to be replaced, if they are burned up and can't be repaired. It's far less work, and you're...

LV6100. Or any other model that uses through-hole regulators. You just want to avoid all of the ones with surface-mount regulators, as these will often blow if there is a deflection system failure, and you'll end up needing to replace the LV board again. I have never seen one of the...

These sold a bit ago. Sorry for the confusion, OP has been updated.

You can extract those pins from the edge connector, resolder the wires to them, and return everything back to stock, without needing to buy anything. You'll need an extraction tool (or a correct-sized bobby pin) to remove the pins. But there's just a metal locking tab inside the connector...

We’ve seen this in other threads. As Jrok said, check the 5V, and make sure it is set to EXACTLY 5.00V, at the board. Related threads: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/qbert-jrok-board-board-keeps-resetting-in-play.555813/post-5016293

You can get various PROM adapters (from folks like brzezicki at arcade-cabinets.com) and then just use Winbond 70ns EEPROMs, which you can program with many common burners (I use my GQ-4X). Someone here recently mentioned being able to burn PROMs for folks (was it @Charles Kline, maybe?). But...

Damn, I’m good. 😊

Check the cabinet wiring next. Test and compare the wiring against the wiring diagram in the schematics. If you don’t know how to read it, learn. It’s not hard. Someone before you may have miswired something. Or you may have unknowingly changed something when you repinned connectors...

Search for the ‘official Monroe thread’. It contains all Monroe info. Yes, other games used them.

If it’s only a slight issue, you are probably not going to find completely stuck lines. When things like counters break, they often still count, but just don’t count right. So the outputs can still toggle, just not correctly. Try swapping the DAC’s first, to rule them out. Since they...

It’s free for everyone with a PayPal account. It used to be Shipstation, but yes, they split, and it’s PayPal’s service now. But nothing has really changed except the form. The info you have to enter is the same. And don’t use USPS Priority. Use Ground Advantage. It’ll take the same...

I have refurbished and warrantied game boards: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/gravitar-pcb-refurbed-w-1-year-warranty-575-shipped.529951/

It’s not a ROM issue. See this thread: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/wtb-asteroids-cocktail-pcb.395749/

Y position counter. Or possibly a bad Y DAC or 4016. I always start with the analog section first. A scope would help narrow it down.

I don’t understand that article. The person is advocating for barcades, which already exist.

God I am loving this thread.

Except a hammer works consistently when used properly. AI so far doesn’t work reliably or well enough to be useful for anything I’ve seen. And it isn’t going to get better anytime soon. The whole thing is a grift, based on a gimmick that isn’t much more than a party trick at the moment...

If you have PayPal, you already have their free paypal shipping service. That’s what I use. It gives you a hefty discount on USPS or UPS. (I only use USPS.) If you use the right size boxes, it’s the cheapest way to ship.