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Build a dummy load for testing and troubleshooting. If you are working on PS'es, this is a must. You never really know if a PS is functioning properly until and unless you test it under load. Otherwise if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

We’ve seen this in other threads. As Jrok said, check the 5V, and make sure it is set to EXACTLY 5.00V, at the board. Related threads: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/qbert-jrok-board-board-keeps-resetting-in-play.555813/post-5016293

You can get various PROM adapters (from folks like brzezicki at arcade-cabinets.com) and then just use Winbond 70ns EEPROMs, which you can program with many common burners (I use my GQ-4X). Someone here recently mentioned being able to burn PROMs for folks (was it @Charles Kline, maybe?). But...

Damn, I’m good. 😊

Check the cabinet wiring next. Test and compare the wiring against the wiring diagram in the schematics. If you don’t know how to read it, learn. It’s not hard. Someone before you may have miswired something. Or you may have unknowingly changed something when you repinned connectors...

Search for the ‘official Monroe thread’. It contains all Monroe info. Yes, other games used them.

If it’s only a slight issue, you are probably not going to find completely stuck lines. When things like counters break, they often still count, but just don’t count right. So the outputs can still toggle, just not correctly. Try swapping the DAC’s first, to rule them out. Since they...

Y position counter. Or possibly a bad Y DAC or 4016. I always start with the analog section first. A scope would help narrow it down.

God I am loving this thread.

FYI, a 24-hour soak in white vinegar, followed by a scrub with a brass brush will remove rust. Everything can be restored.

Yep, I still use the 3386's. (And yes, Kapton tape and leg bending is still required. But that's easy.) There are ones out there that are a better fit for the footprint. But they aren't the style I like, as they have the thumbwheels, and are bigger, so they sit higher on the board, and just...

It really shouldn't matter which power supply it has, as they basically do the same thing. As long as the wiring isn't hacked up, it should be fine. Start by inspecting all wiring, and testing all voltages. Also, see this post for how to bring up an unknown-condition Atari game...

- Try turning the brightness down on the deflection board. You may also need to adjust the contrast to compensate. - If you still see the retrace lines even with the brightness turned down, it's a problem with the Z axis signal, which could be on the deflection board, or the game board. If...

Use Kester 245 no-clean solder, then clean any remaining flux off with a Qtip and acetone. Or better yet, use Kester organic flux (aka water wash) solder when replacing that many sockets, then just rinse the board under hot water to remove the flux, then stick in front of a fan to dry...

Yes.

Use the back of your finger instead. Check for bad/hot chips on the board that could be bringing the 5V down. Also, if this PS uses 2N3055's (or similar) for the 5V, you might have just blown one. Most of these early linear supplies are a similar design as the AR-II, and should have their...

Then why should I (or anyone) give a shit about your opinion of me.

Did you follow all of the steps I described above? And is that picture test mode, or attract? Post the test mode image. Or a video of attract mode. (Upload to YouTube and like it here). You have game board issues. But it looks like it could be more than just a DAC. Can’t tell from just...

Hey Mark, What would you say if I told you that a majority of people in this hobby have the same exact opinion of you? My 'typical asshole response' was a joking reference to YOUR very well-known tendency to shitpost in anyone's thread when they post about something they've done, saying that...

Google says VHO48 is a 6 amp rectifier. Anything that much or bigger will work. https://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/1094514/NJSEMI/VH048.html The only detail is finding one that matches the pin spacing, though that's not super critical, as you can just bend the pins slightly if...