Search results for query: *

LV6100. Or any other model that uses through-hole regulators. You just want to avoid all of the ones with surface-mount regulators, as these will often blow if there is a deflection system failure, and you'll end up needing to replace the LV board again. I have never seen one of the...

Yes, the tube is ‘necked’, meaning someone or something put enough force on the neck board to break the glass neck, letting the vacuum out of the tube. It’s like breaking a light bulb. The tube is trash.

Yup, that’s what a bad flyback looks like in one of these. It’s not common, but when they go, you’ll see clear melt marks in the side. (Often they’ll have a nickel-sized hole melted into the side, lower down). But when you’re rebuilding these, if it isn’t melted, you can generally always...

It's one of the transistors on the lower aluminum plate that has the 4 transistors on it. Most likely the 3716 that is furthest away from the tube, under the corner of the deflection board where the LV2000 board is. (Which is the lower left corner of the board, looking at it from the back of...

Yes, you are.

See this recent post: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/new-apar-amplifone-g-flyback-install-on-dezbez-hv-boards.556492/

Yeah, I don't think I've ever seen that on a LL cab before. Very cool.

Pull the 2x3-pin connector to the PS. That's the power. The other connector is the video signals.

Use the RGB colorbar screen in test mode. Look at the brightness of the thinnest R, G, and B lines, and adjust the neck pots so they are equal. When you do that, the white lines should be a nice bright white, and not tinted toward any one color.

The neck sockets are no longer made, and replacements are very hard to find. It's usually easier to just buy a new neck board. Or maybe a trashed one to salvage the socket from. It's possible to repair the sockets. But you have to open the socket housing to do it right, and it takes some...

Scroll up 3 posts. :)

See this post, and the one it links to: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/first-vector-game-help-star-wars.536832/post-4815924 Also, if your screen is too big, it's possible your HV may be too low. If you own any arcade games, but especially vectors, you really should own an HV probe...

Catching up on old notifications I missed while on vacation over the summer. Did you ever get this fixed? Thanks for the HV pics. The non-working one is an Issue 4 layout, vs Issue 5 on the other one. (Note the Issue number is silkscreened on the solder side). I went back and checked my...

See the wiring diagram in the Star Wars schematics for how to test the power brick voltages. AC voltages must be tested between two pins, not from one to ground. Also, the 2N3055 can test ok and still be bad, if it isn't tested under load. Also, you may have a bad LM-305 regulator (the...

Ok. That makes it pretty clear. Wow. Turn that voltage down using the pot on the AR, immediately. You should also replace the 2N3055 bottlecap transistor on the AR, as it's likely damaged. Normally the AR's adjustment range should be roughly 4 to 6V, for the min to max travel of the...

I'd sanity check that measurement, make sure you were using the right test point and GND. And test your DMM. (Test it on a 9V battery, or your 12V car battery, or something else with a known voltage.) I'm surprised the board would even work if it's actually at 7V. The AR normally can't...

If that wasn't a typo, and the 5V is actually 6.98, that's a problem. Where are you measuring it?

No problem. You might want to download and spend time with this doc. It explains how to bring up a 6100 color vector monitor (the model used in Tempest and other games), and walks you through a process that should catch most major issues before they cause damage. The general procedure is...

Have you tested the output voltages that the game board is outputting? (And what game is this?) If not, measure the DC and AC voltages on the XOUT and YOUT test points on the game board, with the game board in test mode, and the monitor UNPLUGGED. (Power the board up with the test switch...

If it's just the height, it's not going to be HV. HV would affect both axes. I would DeOxit the pots on the deflection board first. If the issue goes away then comes back, replace them.