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I have refurbished and warrantied game boards: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/gravitar-pcb-refurbed-w-1-year-warranty-575-shipped.529951/

Cool. Thanks for the data. I don't put much stock into serial numbers, since we know Atari didn't number cabs sequentially. So it's hard to correlate that info. The only other thing I'd question is if all of those cases were actually from the factory with the 12-pin connector. (And weren't...

The jitter is just a matter of having the grounds pinned out correctly. If you have the jitter, the grounds need to be moved around. My understanding is that all Asteroids UR harnesses were pinned for 801's. However some cabs did ship with 802's, in which case they also came with the...

Actually if you are trying to plug an v2000 or 802 monitor into an upright Asteroids cab, you need the opposite adapter of the thread you quoted. You need the one below. Connector sizes are the same, you just need the opposite genders from the part numbers I posted.

What trouble are you having? Making your own is the easiest and fastest option here. APAR or Digikey has all of the parts. The 2x3 connector is .093", Digikey P/N WM1335-ND. The 4x3 is .084", Digikey WM1253-ND. The 1x7 are .156. I don't have a PN handy, but you can find them. You...

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/atari-utility-panels-and-the-games-which-use-them.505432/

They are not all exactly the same. Someone here made a great thread documenting all of them, and the differences, if you want/care to know. But if it’s for a project (not a restoration), it may not matter.

I wonder if something like that could be 3D printed, if someone could loan an original, or measure one. Maybe ask @Arcadenut, or someone else who does 3D printing stuff.

Haha. The first thing I thought when I read the title was Mylstar. Too bad he's out. It might be easier to buy a whole used pedal assembly than finding just the pulley, unfortunately. Or maybe find something via McMaster-Carr (or maybe an RC car/plane catalog, or hobby robotics company)...

If the ones Matt posted aren't short enough, you could make your own. Take an LED, solder two resistors to the legs (each being half of what the total resistance needs to be), and stick it in the socket holes.

No. Amplifones have the pincushion correction built into the CRT. Related post and thread here.

Sale thread: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/asteroids-pcb-astravaganza-2-year-warranty-215-shipped-165-w-trade.542968/

I have refurbed ones available.

No. You basically need to clip or melt the plastic rivets on the bottom of the connector to split it open, then using a very fine iron, do some surgery to repair the pin at the point where it breaks. The breaking point is down inside a hole, where there's a tiny hole drilled in the metal...

You might have a hard time finding one. FWIW, it might be easier to find another harness from a game that is similar, and move a few pins to convert it. Atari harnesses are similar in a lot of ways. You'd just need to figure out what game is closest, both in terms of pinout, but also...

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/varo-h510-hv-diode.480067/post-4829723

There is no source for the boots. I just use cut pieces of silicone hose. You can get it on ebay. The voltages on those focus wires is not super high voltage (it's only a few kV on one wire, and a few hundred on the other), so it isn't 20kV, like the anode wire. As a result, they...

I just solder the wires to the transistor (then shrink tube them), when that connector is damaged or missing. Better connection, and that transistor almost never fails anyway.

Looks like someone’s going off their Atkins diet.

Arch Rivals sticks aren’t cheap anymore? (Interesting. I haven’t been following prices.) I’m guessing Brad’s red replacement shafts have increased the demand for them?