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Make sure and get a DMM while you're there. You don't need anything fancy, but trying to navigate arcade problems without one is no good.

Sounds like the pins on the harness need replacing since they're no longer tight.

Could just mean "doesn't boot a game". We don't know for sure, but I also took it as totally dead. Most of the influx of covid people ruined it for me. I'm starting to come back a bit, but how many times I've seen dudes pop $1000+ PCBs into a cab and have no idea what their voltages are or...

Almost a decade old post necrobump aside. You might want to define dead. Is it truly dead? Is 12v dead? Is -5v dead? Do you have no voltages at all? These aren't hard to work on. If you can't figure it out, shoot me a PM, I don't mind working on these.

Fans extremely loud and running slow sure sounds like a heat problem. I'd yank the PC out and clean out all the dust bunnies to start.

Sounds like we need a picture!

Well I've finally done it. Missed writing down a cap value while doing a cap kit. I am in need of the value of C24 on a Meanwell Q-120D. It's the closest cap to the fuse.

I sold a BVM last year for $4800. Console folks are indeed silly.

Also keep in mind you own it. You can come back to this at any point when you feel like tackling it. Play it for now, one day you'll go "Man, maybe I'll see about that DK monitor" and with a fresh head get it sorted out easily, even if it's a year from now.

You gotta turn the cab on!

purity. rings. scary. (at least if you don't remember to mark their original location)

Yep, that's just a JAMMA 60 in 1 board. 12v and 5v is enough.

I've had to do so much trace repair on some of the Sys12 games I've bought :(

If you hum a few bars, I can probably play it.

Either GND is fine. More than likely you'll need to remove the caps in the audio section, clean it up, and replace them. Sys12 stuff has a leaky audio caps problem in general.

Hacksaw.

Stay the heck away from PNL is my advice. I'm not sure if they do vectors, but Sharp Image in Vegas is excellent with raster monitors at least. Even weirdo models that places like arcadecup (also legit) pass on even looking at. And don't worry about places being local. Worry about how good...

Oh, you're new new. This is not how this hobby works. Different games require different loads, so some games working and one not doesn't mean anything here. Pick a chip on the B board, look at the datasheet for it. Check GND vs the 5v leg while it's running. Should be in the 5.00-5.09...

First double check the voltages, then clean and deoxit the connectors and make sure no pins are bent. But if that doesn't work you need to try it with a known good A board (and test your A board with a known good B/C combo). There's a custom on the A boards that is known for going bad...

hobbyroms is also good. Everyone except me has good experiences with paradisearcade. Arcadeshock and FocusAttack are both super reliable, but AS can be a pain if you want to return something or get a mixed up order.