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Welp...I'm out! lol

What chassis is it? I'm guessing it's a G07? Also, that monitor needs to be white balanced.

Agreed. Original filter caps on the the 20EZ are notorious for leaking. And yes, the original B+ pot on the 20EZ is garbage and hard to adjust. Just replace both while you are at it.

I'm also seeing red, green, and blue down the left side of your screen so your tube is probably fine. (Fine enough to show R,G,B anyway) You might just trying turning down the brightness pot on the flyback a little to see if that improves the image. Labeled "SCREEN" on the flyback. (Forgot to...

Definitley a cap kit at an absolute minimum. While you are capping it, reflow everything around the vertical output. You are seeing vertical fold over on the left. (Top when the monitor is horizontal) Quite frankly, since you will be capping it anyway, you need to check for cold solder or...

Oh wow....thank you for clarifying that for me. Those other input lugs have always been a little confusing to me. Ok, cool...thanks guys. Sounds like this is normal and probably shouldn't be an issue.

I was wondering the same thing so I tested a different isolation transformer that I use on my on my test bench rig (a very similar model) and that one tested about 122VAC without load. So obviously not all isolation transformers are the same and one should expected all sorts of variances...

I've been reading a few threads about isolation transformers outputting "higher than expected" voltages and the opinions on this topic seem to be mixed. Hoping the monitor experts here can help. I just finished wiring up a power supply that will be power for a jamma cabinet. (Formerly an empty...

Looks like partial vertical collapse. Consult the flowchart: https://www.thegeekpub.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/G07-Flowchart.pdf

ChungHwa – ATTL TB-3 7007 https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/ChungHwa-ATTL-TB-3-7007-Top-scaled.jpg

Yes, that appears to be the classic pinhole. Fill it with epoxy and you might get lucky.

Need to be somewhat careful with these Kortek chassis. While they all might look the same, they can have variations in the number of pins on the socket of the neck board.

If I had seen this thread earlier I could have immediately told you the model number. I have this same chassis in my Pac-Man. Nice compact and tidy little chassis that produces a gorgeous picture when rebuilt. The only thing you need to keep an eye on is pinholes that develop on the flyback...

@mecha will gladly help you find a burn-free tube. He hates tube burn too. ;)

Definitley looks yoke related. I would be ohming that yoke and checking continuity.

Just FYI (if anyone cares) my computer's security software didn't like that link. Probably because it's being hosted on a .ru (Russian) domain.

I use this rechargeable rotatory tool with a brass wire wheel attachment. One of my favorite tools for this hobby. https://a.co/d/aLETXH7 https://a.co/d/45nbA42

@tron guy Do you wear a cape around everyday? Because you are a G07 hero. Amazing that you nailed that issue so quickly just looking at a picture. (And not even seeing the chassis)

I would never trust myself with those "grabber" adapters. Gambling with the life of a tube using those, IMO.

@SNESNESCUBE64 might have what you need.