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ISSUE HAS BEEN FIXED! TL: DR - Replacing the 4016B at M9 resolved my issue Referenced this recovered Asteroids Repair log: https://web.archive.org/web/20201014122006/https://sites.google.com/site/asteroidsrepairlog/ So after looking through these documents I drew my attention to the 555 timer...

For anyone digging through this page for ship fire sound problems fixes like I am, here's the Wayback Machine link to this page. Thank God this was archived! https://web.archive.org/web/20201014122006/https://sites.google.com/site/asteroidsrepairlog/

I do have some 555 timers already on hand so I think I may just go ahead and try replacing L9 since I have it. I'll also try to take a closer look at caps to see if anything is loose or off. And just for good measure I'm thinking of hooking up a different speaker JUST IN CASE it's something...

Do you have a link to this thread? Any further elaborations? There's four 555 timers on the board, so which is the one I should focus on? Presumably L9?

Finally got around to replacing those caps. Unfortunately they still sounds the same. What next should I try to pursue?

Thank you! Ill try to look at those as soon as I can (The machine isn't at my house at the moment). Also out of curiosity, could it have anything to do with the 4016 IC at M9? I saw it mentioned in a couple other threads that also seemed to mention those same caps. Any thoughts?

Recently did a full recap of my asteroids cocktail cabinet for general maintenance purposes. The sound was slightly iffy before, but right now it recently developed a weird honking sound for when it fires. That I'm pretty sure wasn't there before. I recapped everything from the monitor to the...

UPDATE: Cause of issue found. So I'd recently bought a new pot of Solder flux. I had accidentally bought the yellow goopy kind for pipes rather than the white paste. This stuff was much stickier and thicker than the white paste. After noticing how the power supply would start up fine then...

Came back to it a few hours later, checked it again and it was pushing 5 volts again. Plugged everything back in the game. Ran for like 2 and 1/2 minutes before abruptly, dropping to 1 volt.... What in the world is this?

My AR II board for my centipede has developed a bug on it's 5 volt line. I've had this Centipede for over a year and it originally would get garbled graphics and crash. I cleaned the connectors out and had no problems for over a year. It started acting up again recently sporadically so I decided...

(Also to any mods watching, the scope of my issue here now kinda has changed beyond the original post, so idk if this is something I should start a new thread on or not )

UPDATE! I've installed the new cap kit and the MR750's however it seems I have a new problem. I'm only getting between 2.5-3.0 volts output on the power supply now. Adjusting the pot seems to be doing nothing too. This certainly is unexpected. Could this be an issue relating to the 2N3772...

The new MR750's are on their way along with the cap kit! I'll get those installed and report back from there! Thanks for the pointers!

That looks like it all right! I'll try to look closer to be sure! But thank you!

Yep I did indeed miss that. I'll put on the dunce cap for that one. I updated the diode test as well. .46 volts showing one direction. And OL on the other.

Got This 19-in CGA monitor out of some video poker machine that was headed for the dump. I can't find any model number on this. Seems like a perfectly good monitor but definitely on the wonky/ inconsistent side and needs a cap kit. The chassis circuit board says "JC TRON" on it, But no further...

UPDATE ON RESISTOR R104. I pulled a leg out of the circuit and tried to measure its resistance and it was basically fully shorted. Less than 2 ohms resistance. Fortunately, looking at the underside of the resistor gave no further clues as to what its resistance is supposed to be.

Just tested the diodes. In diode test mode I'm getting a reading of .46 volts in one direction and OL in the other. They are showing 1k ohms of resistance in One direction and No connection in the other. Is 1K ohms too high? I mean I'm going to be replacing them anyways but still.

Okay! So the current diodes used are MR750 . What would you recommend to replace them with? Or should I try and use replacement originals first?

So these diodes overheating is just kind of a native problem with the circuit in general? It's not necessarily related to other parts failing like the big transistor 2N3772 ? So it sounds like just replacing the diodes and the capacitors also be should be enough to at least get me back in...