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There is a lot of support for this on newlifegames.com in the forums if you have any more trouble getting this working.

Just a follow up, I finally found some time to get back to this. I ended up shotgunning Q603,Q604,Q703 and Q704. They tested fine in a transistor tester but looks like one was failing under a load.

I tested all the frame transistors and replaced the regulator on the LV2000. I even swapped the plugs for the transistors. No dice. ALL resistors test good. The +25 is good and doesn't pull down until the vectors start being generated. I am going to wait until I can test the CPU on another...

I haven't dug to deep into this yet and thought I'd ask before I started. Tempest blew two bit slicers so there were the usual wacky vectors during play. Eventually the monitor blew F600 and F700 but the spot killer was still off. I pulled the boards and chassis from the location and brought...

Guilty a couple of times.

Can you confirm if the focus wire was run up through the slotted hole in the side of the flyback ? I had a couple new flybacks blow and I had forgotten about running that wire. Correctly wired the replacements and they have been fine since.

Heat shrink is not good enough. You must use silicone on the ends of the diode.

I do. Haven't a clue if it works or not. If anyone's ever in central NJ drop in and you can have it.

I've done a couple. Same as color - hit and miss. I have one in a Space Invaders cocktail that did 2 years ago and still looks great. I've done others that go back to dim after a week.

Have you checked the purity ? You need to display a solid white screen and see how the corners look. If they are discolored or darker than the center you may be able to adjust it with the neck rings (if the monitor even has them). As mecha said, those Makvision (also Pentranic) are not good...

I've never tried a Centipede but I could never get a video converter to work with a Dig Dug. One thing that has helped me with other Atari games is a 680ohm to 1k resistor between the game and converter sync line.

Any thoughts ? I originally thought the tube was bad because the picture was very dark. Tube tests good. Monitor was mostly recapped, I replaced the remaining caps (those 2.2uf @ 350v) and the bi-polar cap as well. Everything seems normal. B+ is dead on, 12v, 15v all good. Q800's all test good...

Thanks for this info. I've got 3 of these monitors that did this. The first 2 I replaced all the zener diodes, flyback and U101 which finally solved the problem. I have one more that still occasionally has this problem. Now I've got something else to try.

I haven't dug into this too much as the game is on location. The problem is on the video interface board as I swapped it with another monitor and it does the exact same thing. The reds are showing as brown, and the greens show as yellow and blue is fine. I shot gunned all the transistors and...

Looks like a board issue.

I recently serviced a WG K7500 with a shorted Q101. The coil at L701 was broken off just above the center of the coil (the core was broken, not the wire coil). Any thoughts if it's ok just to silicone the coil back together ? I don't know how crucial this is. I probably have some junk chassis I...

Finally got back this. To my surprise it is a 27 inch. Sadly the tube is on its way out but I have a couple 27" donor TVs. Right now I'm trying to figure out a sync problem. When the game is turned on the monitor has no horizontal sync. Unplugging the composite sync lead and plugging it back...

25" Chassis, Labeled K7184. I've never seen this one before. Pincusion daughterboard ? Has an adjustable coil on it along with (2) 10uF Bi-polar caps. Some mods on the underside too. Came out of an NBA Jam cabinet.

I've had one of these for years. Damned if I can remember where I got it.

Security is the best. I was seeing loads of "new" flybacks blowing only months after installation before I switched over to him.