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Not sure how I missed your reply for so long, but thank you! Much appreciated! I don't have the cams, but am sure I can hack one together.

Necro-bump! After over half-a-year. :001_ssuprised:

Quick bump! :D

Hey all - Need some help - the Big Red cabinet I had came with no locks on the upper Marquee. Can someone let me know the length of the lock needed, and the part number, style, or whatnot of the cam that locks in and catches against the screws? Thanks! -Mike

PM was sent, haven't heard back. So, still lookin'. Or, willing to just buy a new MVS-4 board. :D

Look in your manual, under the 'Power Wiring Diagram'. You'll see that all of the *controlled* lights are connected to a YEL (yellow) wire, which feeds them +12. The Marquee lights are just 120v tube, and likely unplugged, tube bad, or starter is bad.

Thanks, will drop him a line! It's an MVS-4 board (later version, don't have my notes on me at the moment), and likely has flex damage. Spacers were missing when I got it, and when carts are plugged in, sometimes they work fine, sometimes there's vertical lines in the graphics, sometimes no...

Hey all - Anyone know if Channelmaniac still in business? If not, anyone know of someone that takes care of Neogeo MVS boards? (Tried contacting through his website, never heard back, and dropped a PM here, but he hasn't logged on here in a long while. So, figured I'd check!) --Mike

I've been known to have some crazy requirements according to my ex, but in this case, I think it'll work then. Thanks! -Mike

Hey guys - I see mixed answers with my google-fu. Was wondering if anyone could confirm/deny if an LM1875 Audio amp (still in production!) can be a substitute for a TDA2020 (2030, 2040, etc..)?

If you 'open' a file, it loads it into the buffer. Then pressing 'Verify', it reads the chip, and compares it to what is in the buffer. (If you 'read' the chip, it loads the chip INTO the buffer..) AFAIK, a 4000 is not the same pinout as a 4001 - so that may be part of your issue.

Where are you measuring voltage? On the board, or the Jamma connector, or the PS connector? You will have voltage drop between the two connectors there.

For the record - the boot up screen, nothing changes except the steering wheel. All the pedal values are shown, and the steering wheel is shown. The game will try to swing the wheel all the way to the right, then all the way to the left. The pedal numbers won't change unless someone is sitting...

This wouldn't be an issue anymore - unless your monitor is dark. The motor board has a plug on it that accepts 48v AC, from the transformer in the bottom of the cabinet. The 120v AC plugs into the monitor. Depending on the brand of monitor you have, the monitor plug, OR, a junction to convert to...

Depends on HOW the fuse is blowing, honestly. In this case, though - it's likely the motor is bad, and drawing too much current. (Metal shavings, etc..) It's possible that the idiot plugged in the monitor's 120v feed into the motor board's feed at one point (they're the same plugs) and blew...

Intetesting. For the record, the Rush and RtR systems use GUTS. To get in their menu, set the top two dip switches on the top bank ON, then reboot the game. You'll be stuck in test mode, but you'll have these secret options.

Agreed - I have an older model, that works flawlessly. Even on 2716s, 2732s without an outside power supply. (Though, that depends mostly on your USB port on your PC/laptop and how much power IT provides..) Also, if you're using a USB3.0 port, try another one - they state (or used to? I can't...

Good! The fan not running - I still think you're safe, as overall the game doesn't draw that much current, but it's good to be safe.

Good luck. :) Post here how it goes. I have one that's resetting, but it's because of a bad power supply (one of the new ones I got has a low +5v rail). One of mine has this mod done to it, the one that is resetting and has the low rail does NOT, so after I get a new PS, if the resetting...

Honestly, I don't know. Since it's described as a 'timing' error, likely there's frequency noise on that signal there that the cap is filtering out. If my guesses are right above, then, a ceramic cap should do the job well enough to fix it, yeah.