Search results for query: *

Where can I source the correct stand-off posts for the display board? The plastic housing (with red cover) would push onto these posts.

Thanks for all the help, I have connected all chips and bypass caps, everything seems ok. The diode is a 1N5908 that I should be able to source. Once again, thanks a bunch for your knowledge!

Yes, 5V at the output pin! Now, is 14V too much for input voltage? The regulator is still getting hot, but maybe that's normal hence the heat sink attached to it. R32 is dropping the voltage a bit, but not a ton. Just making sure it's normal.

Looks like D29 might be bad. Pulled it out of circuit and tested, it is reading .003V in both directions.

There are 2 components that get super hot, U17 and R32 (5V section). Does the fact that U17 staying cool when the output leg is disconnected, tell us that U17 isn't the issue? Or could U17 still be the problem?

All bypass caps removed (x9) along with chips U2, U5, U6, U8, U9, U12, U14. No change in voltage, still dropping to 2.8VDC at the output leg of U17.

For the bypass caps, are these the caps with a Cxx number by them, or the ones that have CX or CY next them?

Yes, all chips were verified to be correctly installed. I then removed one at a time until all socketed chips were removed and the 5V was still loaded down.

Unloaded 5V output of U17.. R32 Voltage IN = 16.2 Voltage OUT = 16.2 U17 Voltage IN = 16.2 Voltage OUT = 5.0 U16 Voltage IN = 16.0 Voltage OUT = 15.0

Sure, here they are. You are right, that is strange how they numbered them like that..

Here's some of the readings.. R32 Voltage IN = 15.3 Voltage OUT = 5.1 U17 Voltage IN = 5.1 Voltage OUT = 2.9 U16 Voltage IN = 14.7 Voltage OUT = 12.6 I removed all socketed chips one at a time and nothing brought the 5V back up. To me it seems that R32 is dropping the voltage too much and...

For 5V at the CPU, I'm measuring across pins 35 and 39 (using pin 35 for +5V and pin 39 for ground). Don't forget, R32 and U17 are getting smoking hot, still don't know why that is either.

Oh, ok, I was misunderstanding what those LEDs were for, but that makes sense. D26 does light up, yes.

This is being tested on the bench with no accessories plugged in. D28 (5V LED) lights up, just not the 12v LEDs (D30 and D31).

15.5VDC Other notes.. R32 and CU17 are getting extremely hot R32 is a 5 ohm resistor while the schematic calls for a 10 ohm. It looks factory though. D30 and D31 (12VDC LEDs) are not lit Only getting about 2.5VDC at the 5V pin on the processor I tested all 4 voltage regulators (U16, U17, SRC2...

Thanks gutz, looks like I was measuring the transformer incorrectly. If I measure it as you suggested, I get about 14VAC out of the transformer with no load. Even though it's lower than expected, why am I getting 60VAC out of the bridge rectifier when I should be getting 12VDC? I'm still...

So, it's not the rectifier. Looks like the fault lies in the transfomer. She should step down from 120VAC to about 18VAC, but she's outputting about 60VAC. Unless someone chimes in, looks like I'll try and hunt down a transformer.

I feel like an amateur, posting for help before performing simple checks like voltages. I checked for 12V at a few points and was getting nothing, then switched to AC and found AC voltage at the DC points. Looks like the bridge rectifier went bad. Not sure what else may have gotten fried, but...

I picked up a 10' Model S with the SBC-1-A board. It currently does not work. The fan turns on and so does 1 LED on the board, but the displays don't work and can't start a game. I have no manual for this specific board, and I see no buttons on the board to enter a diagnostic mode. Can anyone...