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Turned out to be horizontal hold pot that was bad. Back up and running

A friend of mine dropped off a 20ez to be fixed with the symptoms of being dead after recapping. For the life of me, I cannot get this thing out of HV shutdown. I’ve swapped in a known good hot, IC601, IC401, Q901, known good fly back and still nothing. I recapped it with a new kit from Arcade...

i was able to find the heater outputs off the board. 0.9v. In looking at the diagrams this appears to be an output off the flyback, through a single resistor (good) to the heater output. So we're going to say this one is junk, and time to pop in another vertical monitor.

Can anyone tell me the brand of monitor/chassis this is? Came in my Carnival. I have high voltage, but no neck glow. Don’t want to troubleshoot this blind without schematics. I tube swapped it as all the guns were dead in the other tube.

I finally figured it out. I thought it was the deflection board, so I threw mine in and let it run. 30 min in, no picture, but no spot killer. So I swapped all my 801 components in, and it still flickered. So it's then either wiring or the tube. While running I lightly tapped the tube neck...

lol, yup, found that out the hard way. Thank goodness for @andrewb’s post

Q503 and Q506 were both replaced with MPSA05’s. But I will go back and check the 90v you mentioned.

Unfortunately no. I replaced the yoke and the connector below it as they were nice and brown from heat.

All reflowed. Some cold solders were found.

I have this G05-801 whose image will vary in brightness all by itself. The issue is contained to the deflection board. I swapped in a known good deflection board to confirm and the image is stable. The image is good at startup and will slowly get brighter, then have bursts of dimness, then...

Text me tomorrow and we’ll walk through a couple areas to test

I had a spare k7000 yoke plug

Got my tube swapped k7000 going today. Cobbled a bunch of parts together to make it work. I had the same 1.5 ohm and 6.2 ohm readings on the yoke. Worked great!

I’m about to do almost the exact same swap. Maybe this week. Cut the dag ground plug off, reuse it for degauss coil down the road. Put a new plug on dag ground and connect it to the neck board. Good luck!

The saga is over. I popped the original flyback back in and low and behold, no wavy lines. In fact, the picture was perfect. The issue with the picture fading in and out with the OE fb also disappeared, so R602 must have been on its way out. Appears the shorting on the fb cage was a blessing in...

The second fb installed was also a repro. This is great news, much thanks @CharlieG ! There’s one more on the way from Paradise Arcade, but I suspect we’ll run into the same thing. I’ll update the post one more time after I swap in the dying OEM one again, just to see if it has lines too. If...

I swapped in another flyback as I thought the shorting of R602 and it’s demise may have also adversely affected the flyback. You’re not kidding about the weird parts failures. I’m not sure how many other people have had a crack at this thing and have been unable to get it going. I went and...

Just when I thought I was done with this bloody thing. So I reassemble the whole thing, put all the metal bits and pieces back on and fire it up. Extreme brightness shows on the screen with the good old “flyback is too high” lines. Nothing fixes this. Start taking it apart again to find out...

And done. Another cracked trace on the green neckboard transistor. Image wonkiness was a switch on the TPG It’s official….I hate these monitors

Making progress. Previous work around the Hot had caused the pcb to bow and cause stress cracks in the traces. Addressed those and now I have a picture! Obviously not quite right, but getting there!