Search results for query: *

The value of the resistor depends on the CRT. The value usually found of 0.68 ohm is for RCA and Zenith tubes. Other brands may require a different value. The reading you got probably depends on the meter not being true rms and/or not supporting the 15KHz frequency. I think the flyback is fine...

Ah, ok. Don't forget to put a resistor in R213 when you source a new tube.

0 ohm means the heater is good. Is that what you're reading? Infinite resistance, OL (overload) or whatever your meter displays when the probe are not touching anything would mean that the heater filament is open and the tube is to be tossed. If you raise the G2/screen voltage on the flyback...

What's Q2? There are no parts named Q. The MOSFET in the PSU is T101. If faulty replace it with IRFBC30 or P4NA80. IC101 UC3842 may be bad. Socket it if you replace it. Look for bad solder in the whole PSU area.

You need to make sure the tube heater is intact (the jumper wire replacing R213 raises concerns) . Remove the neckboard and measure the resistance across pin 9 and 10. It must be a very low resistance (1-2 ohm). Use this pic to locate the heater pins (the two H): And if you can, swap the...

So you have good B+ and the flyback is working. Heater path from flyback to CRT socket is detailed in the pic I posted above. There are no caps. Set meter to AC, black probe on big heat sink, red probe on point C. Then move onto D which is the same as J. You already proved continuity on this...

12V on R90?

A spare HOT (2SD1398) is always handy to have around but the current one can be tested easily:

The flyback is most likely good. It's possible to isolate the VR circuit from the rest of the chassis and test it with a light bulb as a dummy load if you want to make sure it's bad before ordering a new one.

B+ (130VDC) is missing probably because the voltage regulator is bad.

Do you have 130V in (any of) the points here? And 12V on this side of R56?

Check voltage at R90 (in front of the flyback). If you don't have +12VDC there, the flyback isn't working so the lack of heater voltage/neck glow is due to this. If you have 12V, set the meter to AC and measure at point C of the pic in my previous post. In both cases put the black probe on the...

Checking heater voltage at the flyback is OK but to get a proper reading the meter needs to have an AC bandwidth that covers the 15KHz frequency. Most portable multimeters don't do that. Some bench ones do.

This is a K7000A and the heater goes through another resistor (3 in parallel in fact) before going to the neckboard. Measure resistance from A to J. It should be very low, 2-3ohm. If it reads open, check every point in between until you find where the circuit is open. If everything tests good...

It's 1K. All the trimmers in the schematics have a B (that is easily mistaken for an 8) before the resistance value. 81K wouldn't make sense btw...

The low voltage sample of the anode voltage doesn't make the monitor work or work better. It's just for protection. You could unplug it from the chassis and nothing would change but of course it's better to have it in case the flyback outputs higher than normal secondary voltages (one of which...

The divider is for x-ray protection (from 26KV or so it gets a 10-20V sample) and can be bypassed (and tossed) so the anode voltage is sent directly to the tube. A new x-ray protection voltage can be obtained from a secondary output of the flyback, typically the same output as the heater...

CR-70 or CR-71 B&K adapters are rare and probably expensive. Get yourself a socket and make your own adapter.

Not a knot but same thing on a Sony TV. Long lead allows to pull the chassis out and put it on its side for servicing while keeping it connected to the tube.

Non-adjustable coils are absolutely normal if you have a size trimmer. If that's not enough there might be a narrow/wide jumper that needs to be set to wide. I see a red wire in your pic that could be that.