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you didn't post a picture of the screen, if I don't know what the symptom actually is I can't contribute more help.

I like how this was glossed over this guy appeared in the People You May Know on Facebook a few years back and I was just like hey dude is this you? I want you to join my tech chat and he was more or less like "fuck mecha" like he's above me. my previous point here still applies, I gave...

negative composite sync goes to pin 10 negative horizontal sync, as I stated previously

wipe the RGB cutoff pots, use contact cleaner for better results

ah, yes, another case of not knowing how to crimp molex to they just soldered the wire into the IDC? the wire is in the wrong spot in the 3 pin plug, but the 3 pin plug is positioned right on the signal header to where the negative composite sync wire is on pin 10 if that didn't have connection...

I asked this in one of the other 8 threads and I don't remember getting a proper answer if I didn't wash my hands in one of those, I am now

I said they were close enough years ago, I've done it to test multiple chassis using one beat out tube. is it proper to leave that way? I don't know, once again I defer to @arcadecup because he literally bought Wells-Gardner's CRT division in 2015. he has the most intelligence on the subject...

I think we have a mix of both on games at work, and Space Duel I think I told you has one of the Arcadeshop deflection board replacements. I thought LV6100 was the preferred one, but now I know why. thank you

see below

Burgertime is negative H+V, tan wire is for negative vertical sync. make sure you don't have a break in the 3 pin plug wiring and if you watch my videos you'll find I place great emphasis on the solder cleanup part... if you cap a monitor and don't fix the solder to all the header pins then...

Atari used brown for ground, so that totally tracks. that would be earth ground, clips to monitor frame as noted above. they used either white paste or epoxy on the larger caps, according to the legends it was so they didn't just break off when transporting in their early lives. your scrunch...

that's foldover on the left side, which means yes it needs caps but the Brightness and Screen are probably juiced making it look next level awful

the copper on the yoke is sealed, that part won't shock you, but the actual posts that the wires to the plug go to can. Wells-Gardner monitor yokes usually have a flappy plastic cover that go over those but we're not exactly dealing with original spec stuff much of the time. I've had success...

I've worked on hundreds of monitors, Neotecs are bad enough to just take out of the game, so I understand greenhorns not wanting to muck with them. extracting the tube out of the game makes taking it apart a lot easier though. but if you're talking about 500DX they're a little complicated for...

no... that's actually just how they came. if you're burning up resistors then you probably have shorted parts. seek out the help of @arcadecup no I don't fix these for people and no I have no further guidance to offer, I would send it out to get fixed. good luck

oh, right the K7400 tube is bad. try using the rings to your donor tube. don't tighten it down initially, if you have a mirror or way to see the screen on a crosshatch pattern make sure convergence is good. then use solid color screen to verify purity. just see how it works

you use the K7400 rings. I would mark a line across the ring assembly and on the exposed parts of the glass neck so you know where to position them when you put them back on. I do it at the top 12 o'clock position

if you ask @arcadecup Chad he'll say no. I would take his word for it seeing how he is Wells-Gardner lol and I meant the trays, they're different.

how are you mounting it?

I think your mission was a success then