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I just use my hands and try not to touch anything else. If you touch something wrong on a board you may get a small shock, the real dangerous thing is the thick red wire with the plunger attacked to the glass. Don't mess with that! You can move the yoke up and down on the neck of the tube and...

It looks like almost certainly your yoke is out of alignment. You want to loosen the screw and move it around until it looks right. I would not have messed with the rings at all. If there's a color smear on the screen it could be degausing. If there's a convergence issue it could be rings. But...

Why not adjust the width coil? I know that it'll only adjust out like half an inch max, but seems like it might fix this. You do want to use a plastic tool and go slow and easy. I've found you'll want the monitor to heat up for like 30 minutes first, it will help physically loosen the coil.

How do people feel about replacing some of these poly film caps with ceramic? My understanding is that they are able to make ceramic caps in values today that they weren't able to manufacture 30 years ago, and they've replaced other cap types for certain values. They do have slightly different...

Wow this fixed the curl at the top of my Simpsons. Thank you Mecha!

Adding some more pictures: 1. You can see how bad the convergence used to be on the play calling screen. Look at the blurry text near the bottom of the screen. 2. How purple everything looks without the color green 3. The faint line on the right side of the screen.

I've had this NFL Blitz where the monitor was a wreck. I had to redo convergence several times and it never quite looked right. Well the other day the color green went out. Ugh. Issue #1 Green This isn't the first time this has happened. Green went out before and I suspected the chroma...

Come to think of it, it was hot glued until today when I broke the glue off.

It is an original black knob.

I have a K7000 where I can dial the picture in correctly, but if I even slightly touch the screen pot on the flyback the brightness will "jump" and get too bright or too dark and stay that way. Rookie question, but should I replace this flyback? I could live with it but maybe the flyback is on...

This tip saved my butt: Make sure the monitor is running for 10 minutes or so before trying to adjust the width coil. They can get stuck in place and break when you try to turn them, but once they heat up they move a lot easier. Do not apply too much pressure. But I agree, it likely won't...

@zenomorp My man! R40 on the neckboard was in fact bad. It's a 10 Ohm 1/2 watt flameproof resistor. I didn't have exactly that on hand but I did have two 22 Ohm 1/4 watt resistors to create a temporary fix (I won't leave it that way). Now I have colors, but not all shades. Also, the screen...

Update: I replaced all of the box caps around the flyback, the flyback, and the big V shift pot on the adjustment board (it was testing odd and had a broken tool stuck in it). Now I'm getting a solid gray screen with some retrace lines. Adjusting the flyback can make it brighter but not dimmer...

Thanks! Great tips. And in hindsight it seems so obvious as those are the parts physically between the flyback and the frame.

I had my Street Fighter 2 running downstairs. I heard a strange noise and went down to find the machine was making electricity noises like Earnest Goes to Jail and the screen was getting blasted with psychedelic rainbow colors. I'm not sure exactly how long it was doing that, maybe as long as 20...

I tried it again and lightning was shooting out of the very top of the flyback although I don't see a hole or anything. It was on for about 2 seconds and smelled like fireworks. I'll replace it and report back.

There were electrical noises and a smell. Pretty sure I saw lightning coming out of the flyback, but now it doesn't look physically damaged at all. Do you think it's safe to try it?

Someone did change the CRT socket and solder all of the pins. And that someone was me. The old one looked gross, mostly covered in flux. I figured I'd swap it just to be "safe". I didn't realize pin 4 needs to be disconnected. What is the point of it then? For rejuvenators? Anyway that red gun...

I have a 25" Hantarex Polo chassis that I bought broken off of Ebay to fix for fun. It seems complete as far as I can tell. I did a full cap kit (the filter caps were really bulging). The flyback seems original but I could tell it was replaced or taken out and put back in at some point. I...

I have 2 K7000's and they both have C7 missing. I think it's part of a factory mod. There is a ceramic cap on the bottom between pin 1 and 22 of IC1 which I'm pretty sure replaces it.