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If the front buttons aren't flashing, check the PC power supply. If they are, check the hard drive

What kind of pot did you replace it with? Does the wheel physically have full range of motion? Weird that it will register movement to return to center, but won't go beyond.

Does it turn all the way left/return to center when you turn it right? Have you calibrated it?

The smaller board could be used for a PC that has a video card that can actually output a CGA signal, but only has a VGA port. Or, if you have a monitor that can take a CGA signal but only has a VGA connector, then you could also use the smaller board to connect the two.

The first one is a converter and will actually convert the video signal from VGA to CGA. The second one is an adapter and is only changing the connector type, it will not change the signal.

This may be a long shot, but ages ago I had a similar issue that I thought was the board and is was actually the monitor. Swiping the contrast pot back and forth fixed it.

I'm pretty sure GT cabs are wired for JAMMA, so theoretically you could toss in another board, change the controls, and make it anything JAMMA compatible. You may need to change the power supply wiring too.

Remove the RAM from the PC and see if it beeps. It should beep and complain if there is no RAM, but if it's still silent it's likely an issue with the motherboard or the CPU.

Have you checked the steering pot/wiring between the pot and the board?

I have two comm boards coming in that I'll use to swap and see if I can find the bad board. Here are the two different linking patterns I've seen, one from the Daytona manual and the other from the GT manual. I've been using the GT pattern

That's the problem I'm having, nothing fails looped on itself. In fact, two linked groups of 4 seems to work fine. It's almost like the more games, the more unstable the linking gets. A group of 6 acts up sometimes, and I have had no luck with a stable group of 8. I've replaced all the cables...

Did you ever get this fixed? I'm having the same issue. Raster lines, light red tint, no picture.

Well apparently I spoke too soon, occasionally the full set will crash during attract and loop back to network checking. I've isolated one set of twins that was causing me issues before and the remaining six still have the same problem, although less often. How often do model 3 comm boards...

I did try that, but had no luck. I originally had 6 of them in my basement and a set of 2 on location, but I've since moved them all to my arcade. I actually solved the problem, I went through game by game and tried each one as "Master" Finally, switching number 4 to master fixed the problem...

Hey everyone, I have a full set of 8 Sega Super GTs and I'm having a few issues getting them all linked. I've followed the wiring diagram from the manual for an 8 player setup, checked all the fiber optic cables, set all the car numbers, but can only get 7 out of 8 games linked. When all 8 are...

I just picked up a Xybots with a green screen with some garbage on it. I've tested the power supply, switched it with a known good one just in case, and re-seated all the socketed chips. Putting the board into test mode and pressing either of the P1 fire buttons causes a beige screen and...

I don't have a source, but the manual lists it as 250 ohms

Here's a picture of the monitor for reference, as seen from the coin door. The blue potentiometer on the left hand side is for contrast

It ended up being the contrast pot on my monitor, swiping the pot left and right cleared it right up. It still happens from time to time since I haven't gotten around to replacing the pot.

It actually doesn't have a converter, which is interesting. It has a VGA cable going directly from the board to the LCD. I'm planning to put a K7500 into the cabinet in the near future though. The cabinet is actually an import, not only does it have the .co.uk website branding on the front, but...