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I was able to get an OG set from arcadecup, so I should be good now! Thanks @mecha for telling me about him, awesome guy!

Thanks, I'll try this!

I figured that was the case, this U5000 was missing its rings when I got it, I'll have to find some somewhere.

Has anyone ever had any success using a set of convergence rings on tube they weren't originally intended for? I have a post in the wanted section looking for convergence rings for my u5000... ...but I was wondering out of curiosity, I have a set of convergence rings for a 4600 that fit the neck...

Replacing u501 made no apparent changes. No adverse screen effects other than the slightly wavy image I mentioned before, it reminds me of something you'd see with a bad ground. My other U5000 had a wavy image like this to the best of my memory, and I solved it by removing the ground from the...

Mmmhm... I already reflowed the sync pins yeah... just rolls horizontally, mmmhm.

I think I figured it out. I tested again and I believe I didn't have the flyback anode fully secured, I noticed when I put it back in that it didn't want to stay in the hole and I had to bend the prongs back apart to make it work. So it probably just ran across the aquadag and it looked like it...

I believe so, but may be worth testing again, I may have thought i attached it but didn't. I have several spare fuses so its worth trying.

I got a GO7 with a bad chassis in a cabinet the other day, I put a good GO7 chassis on the tube in the cab for testing but upon power on a large spark shot out from under the yoke and blew one of the fuses on my good GO7 chassis. I removed the yoke and inspected it for damage but I couldn't...

Haha yeah, my new problem is trying to get them all organized, right now I just have large box full of APAR boxes and dozens and dozens of DIGIKEY/Mouser bags lol. I have some folding parts bin boxes to put them in but I haven't finished building my storage room to put them in yet.

Yeah, when it went dark like the screen in the second image the neck IC was the first thing I thought of. To be honest I've been using using this monitor as an excuse to stock up on spare parts lol. Every time I've ordered something for this I've been getting 5 - 20 extras for spares (depending...

Yeah degause was plugged in every time. I do have a degause wand but I hadn't been able to get it to replicate the problem reliably enough to test. I even took a screwdriver and tapped all around the chassis with the handle to try and set it off on command but never could get it to do so. If it...

Thanks, I appreciate that! I had always heard that as well, this is my second U5000 but the first that needed any major repair. I have several projects to work on but I picked this specifically for a good challenge, for that at least I definitely chose correctly lol.

UPDATE: After getting several FJL6920s and installing one the monitor now is functional again however the problem with the black spot coming in and out in the top right corner still persisted. So my next thought was I wanted to rule out a faulty new flyback so I dug the old one back out and...

Q703 did test good, but that doesn't mean it couldn't be failing under load so I'll pick up a few spares. I believe I checked the resistors but I'll look again.

Oh wow I didn't know that, thanks! I've watched most of his videos but I must have missed or forgotten that lol.

I recently decided to challenge myself with repairing the roughest chassis I had laying around the shop, and finally got it operational, I felt it was best to start a new thread for this question, you can find the original post on this here...

Shutdown was high! It was at .50v, I now have full width control and can adjust the H Hold pot!

Thanks! I'll check it this evening.

Well that was easier than expected! Fortunately, both ends of the broken wire were on the outside part of the yoke and exposed. Yoke now reads 1.1ohm horizontal and 7.5 ohm vertical. It still goes into HV shutdown if I adjust the Width pot any wider than it is in the above image or if i mess...