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So you are saying I can swap only the chassis and be ok? I have the tray to swap as well. Leave the 7000 yoke and rings in it's tube and put the 7400 chassis on it and I'll be ok?

So move the rings and yoke? Don't use the 7000 rings with it's tube?

I assume I can move the 7400 yoke to the 7000 tube. I just worry about convergence. Never been good at that

Gotcha. I have the whole monitor for each but the 7400 tube has awful burn.

Horizontally. I'm just wondering if the tube and yoke from the 7000 is compatible with the chassis from the 7400.

Can I use a K7401 chassis on a K7000 tube/yoke?

Had a request for better PCB pics.

Bump time. Let's make a deal.

This thing keeps losing the adjustment. The curl comes back when the monitor is off for a while. Doors that indicate a bad pot? I haven't shot any contact cleaner in it, as of yet.

I think I can live with this. Put the other width cap back in which is a 184. Fills the screen with only a little crookedness on the bottom. If changing c517 and 518 can help more, I'm certainly willing to try that, but it's ok as is, if not. Thanks for all the help, everyone.

It's curling at the bottom left corner. I wonder if changing c517 and 518 to some of the other suggested values would help and also if widening the pic will look better now that I changed those 2.

I had both of those sizes on hand. I placed the 470 closest to the tube and the 10 closest to the rear of the chassis. It's better, but still off.

So, you suggest a 470 in 517 and a 10 in 518? I can try that tomorrow. This was a kit from a reputable source and seems to match what most list. Happy to take your expert advice.

I can check. What should they be? I capped this a few years ago and new flyback, etc. It's been sitting on a shelf till I needed it. Edit: c517 is 100uf 25v and c518 is 220uf 16v.

Coil is solid. I could buy a new one. No way to adjust real time. Have to pull it out of the frame to get a tool in there.

That's the one I used this time. Still looks like shit.

This is as good as I can get it after changing the width cap again to reduce the width. I can't stand it. It looks crooked at the bottom.

The width coil didn't really make any difference before. That's why I changed the cap. It's also inaccessible while in the frame.

Gotcha. I'll try that. I just put it in the game and it seems worse, if that's possible. So, by reducing size, you think I should put a different width cap in it just vertical size?

This is as good as I can get it. After the width cap change the curl came back. Can't get it totally out, but seems acceptable. Only had a 10uf on hand for the mod. Not sure if a little higher would help.