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BSOD? Wow.

Did you miss IC74? And IC19?

Welcome to KLOV Thanksgiving! We have… Baked pokeys Stuffed coin slots. Mashed buttons smothered in brown paint Roasted sense resistors We’re fixing it all! Please wipe off your edge connectors before you enter!

You can test it with an LCR meter. If you don’t have one you can measure the resistance. If it’s a simple inductor it should have very low resistance but not zero.

Yes. And yes. And…yeeesssssss. Keep the monitor. You’ll be sorry you didn’t. That’s how the hobby works. If you have a part like that that you can’t find a replacement for you have to find someone with a good part in a working monitor and make a repro.

I’ll just stay here until it opens. FIRST IN LINE!!! ⛺️

Looks like a shielded inductor to me. Search that part number and you'll get a bunch of hits. One of them give the value (I think), but I can't download now. On my way to the post office before it closes.

I would never trust that with power transistors. You need to test them under load and a cheap tester is not going to provide the needed 5-10 amps. This will catch open and shorted transistors. I recommend it over a cheap tester. But it won't catch gain problems, and it won't show...

That's exactly what they do. It's called a "bin split" or "binning". You test each device to see how fast it will go. You test it at different speeds and you throw it a bin marked with it's fastest passing speed. If you try to make a 100ns part, most of them will work at 100ns. But some of...

Your xxxH and xxxV counters look correct. Those are fixed counters and shouldn't be changing. HOWEVER, what you should see on every one one them is a series of 50/50 pulses with the exception of the last low or high which may be shortened due to the counter resetting before it's terminal...

The vertical counter resets before the terminal count. So 128V and 256V have the same frequency ~= 60 Hz. But they have very different duty cycles. 128V is (nearly) 50% duty. But 256V is only high for 4 scan lines out of 262 => 1.5% duty. Check the waveforms with your scope. I think it's...

Try digikey or mouser. They should have have 70ns in stock.

Aha! That’s a replacement transformer! (Just saw the photos). And I don't think it's beefy enough…0.8 amps just ain't gonna cut it! Try this: Pull the diodes to isolate the regulator from the transformer. Apply 8 VDC (from your bench supply) to the filter cap that feeds the regulator. Then...

I made a mistake above (corrected now). The transformer is 16.5 VAC from end to end with a center tap in the middle connected to ground. Pin 2 is ground. You should read 8 VAC on pins 3 and 4 relative to pin 2. C4 looks ok. Good that you have the bench supply. If you want to do it right...

@wugly, the +5v regulator is on the PCB. @Smitty420… Don't replace the 0.1 uF ceramic caps. They don't wear out...they last forever. They normally don't fail unless they are physically damaged. I'm talking about leads broken off or the body is shattered. The +18V supply is not regulated...

That's a great point! But taking your idea one step further, I think this is one of those very rare occasions where hot glue is the right answer. PVC tape never stays where you put it as long as you want it to.

Can anyone recommend a good powder coating shop in the Detroit metro area? I need a few pieces coated...coin doors and the like. These are really holding up restoration progress for me.

Wow. What reason did they give?

If you don't personally know Sam (the guy that makes all of these parts in his shed) then there's never a guarantee of legit parts. Larger distis like Digikey and Mouser, Arrow, Avnet, etc. are pretty good about stuff because they buy directly from Sam. Otherwise, it's always a gamble. Maybe...