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Yuck. That looks gross. But it's fixable! Don't send the frame or tube. That's too expensive. Just send the metal chassis with the PCB and *ALL* of the parts that you removed or replaced. (If you didn't already trash them.) The deflection wires should have QC connectors at the yoke...I...

Is it still working, just poorly? Or is it completely dead now? I can fix it if the transformers and tube are still good.

Try to ignore this thread...

That looks good! Congrats! For better focus try reducing the contrast. Your whites are a little blown out. Flaky pots will make it difficult as you already know. But you should be able to knock it down just a little. Great job so far!

Yep. Do it right.

That's a great starting point! Congrats! It looks like you have a multiple image. Adjusting the horizontal hold should help that. Vertical linearity is not right either. But beyond that, you really can't tune the monitor correctly unless you have the game PCB connected to it. Sunc...

2 of them! Somebody grab these before they go :poof:!

But but but! PVMs aren’t legit authentic retro TVs! Danged kids…just poserz….

Yep. looks like 8.2 mH! Regarding the video. I thought you were trying to measure L. Which you can very easily do with the same basic setup. But I see you were actaully trying to measure the self resonant frequency. Are you doing that to try to best match the original? Or is that resonance...

Or....save yourself some money and get this VINTAGE ***SUPREME SCORE BOOSTER*** DEVICE FOR RETRO GAMING. WITH MCM STYLING it's guaranteed to let you achieve those world record scores that you always dreamed of. (Or some money back.) Compatible with original RETRO CRT systems plus all the new...

I just dug up a schematic. That's a 3-pin tuning coil. Not just a simple inductor. Oops. Same basic principles apply but you effectively have 2 inductors in series, with a (sliding) centertap. Be sure to measure between pins 1 and 3 for the total inductance. Did you mean millihenrys or...

What do you mean by "frequency of a coil"? Do you mean the self-resonant frequency? An inductor's main parameter is inductance (L), specified in Henrys. (usually microhenrys for our stuff) Measure the inductance first. I expect that's what you were trying to do with the oscilloscope and...

Here some info on these CRTs: https://tubular.atomized.org/tube/25VGDP22 https://tubular.atomized.org/tube/A78JVB60X

I want to know why I have the only Circus on the planet without blinky lights in the marquee!☹️

You’d better not mess with it any more. It looks great now!

You can move the entire image without affecting how it looks by turning the centering rings on the CRT neck. There are usually separate horizontal and vertical rings but they interact somewhat.

Usually not these days. :dead1: The worst is when it does a "delete-all-then-send-without-remorse". Usually after typing a lengthy and complicated technical document. And there is nothing in the cache or buffers and [go back] doesn't do anything. So you've lost everything. Yeah, seems...

Oh sorry I missed that it went in that spot. That's a really weird one. I wonder if this tube was rebuilt? Maybe it was a generic relabeling (or even un-numbering/renumbering) from that? Can you see any evidence of glass welding on the neck? Or maybe the jug was a generic 19V-100 style...

:ROFLMAO: I didn't forget. The stupid post editor auto-posted for me while I was typing. I hate it when it thinks [ENTER] is the same as "send". It thinks that a lot...

That's the jug description. 19 inch viewable, 100 degree deflection. Your CRT type sticker is missing. It should look like this: (photo credit to @andrewb from here: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/low-burn-19vlup22-tube-for-wg-6100-color-vector-monitor-350-shipping.398507)