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I'm going to end up doing this also to ensure I don't blow up this board. Damn those covers are on there good! Thanks Jason. Peace of mind there will be excellent. Can't wait to finally play this thing!

Hey'all, Could someone help me out with verifying the main harness connector orientation/labeling of these? I'm trying to mate an un-keyed harness with @ArcadeJason 's Vector Wars board in this scratch build of mine and would appreciate help confirming my suspicions. There are nice shrouds glued...

I believe the one on my Tetris board just died last weekend. Like I need something else to work on in my life. I'm still trying to get a water heater installed at the workshop before @jawhn gets here for NYE!

Only caveat would be make sure you know what range of values you believe you need to address vs. what the device can measure. I've had similar devices that worked fine but wouldn't manage the scale required for some tasks.

I can look at my upright but if I remember correctly they are just a standard heavy duty metal body pot. There is an adjustment board on the stick that (probably?) makes it so that you can use various value pots.

I would assume they are. @KaBoom1701 ?

The only curveball could be monitor sync but in theory both should be composite negative signal. I've seen weirdness where a monitor likes one board and not the other so it may require some tweaking or it might just work.

Not sure where you are located but if your harness appears to be more trouble than it is worth then Ken rocks. Golden Age Arcade Parts

My guess is problem with the retroTink or scart/component cables in the first cases and you have lost sync in the later ones. Something changed, you just need to think through when the last time it worked was and what is different now. What type of TVs? Find a known good device to plug into...

There's no way that quality caps are going to fail in anything under 10 years I would think. As mentioned by @andrewb a Variac is indespensible In this endeavor I believe, and I would add to that an ESR meter. Having well labeled parts bins also is critical to this, as overflow from other...

You have to consider that the pedal returns to whatever value is "stopped" as you let off of it. I'm not sure how you can reproduce that without having to repeatedly tap a key one direction or the other to approximate speed changes. These are questions best asked (and possibly already answered)...

That IS cool. If it is anything like their consumer TVs that thing is bomb-proof.

I hadn't noticed that the dramarama was that old either! What a venue this board is sometimes :LOL:

For output from a DC power supply, yes.

Greatly appreciate the replies everyone (and the clear explanation of yoke character @toledoflyer !) Looks like there are more options than I was aware of (expected!) that I need to explore.

I have a good Fluke DMM and a Peak ESR tester but it's high time I got a decent meter for measuring yoke values properly as I don't have anything that reads in Henries of any range. Anybody have experience with Peak's atlas series LCR meter or have suggestions on something similar that they prefer?

What....?! You need to ASK for your thread to be deleted (and politely at that) for this to all work properly. 🙂

If you are building that out then just get an original power brick for a vector game and an AR-II board. They are both easy to rebuild and are perfectly reliable when fresh and connections are kept clean. With those and an original harness you can make great use of Jason's board.

Looks a bit bright from here.

That IS weird. Must be roms.