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Thanks Thanks for the plan of attack- given how much of an oddysey it was for me to complete the multiple repairs needed to the game board and monitor myself last time with just my soldering iron, multi-meter, no real bench setup to work on (just the machine itself), and how much free time I...

Ok this is nuts- resurrecting this again- I never actually got to testing stuff from that last post- work/kids/everything just got too busy.. But I am getting to it now!! So I just tested the fuses, and the two 12V 1A fuses were both blown... So I grabbed more at HD and after replacing them...

Awesome- I will bust out the multi meter and get to work- thanks!

Restricting this thread :( .. The machine worked great for a couple of years after all the work we did based on this thread.. Then it was left un-plugged up until now (4 years later). My daighter asked me if we could play it last week and when I plugged it in I got the cabinet lights and fan...

I wasn't able to spot the arc- I need to try at night (I can't get the room dark enough during the day). I tried swapping in a 'new' monitor board, and sure enough it runs fine.. Which is going to make it tough for me put in the effort of swapping the old one back in to debug this arcing issue-...

I unplugged just the monitor power cable, turned on the game and put 12 credits in. I started one about every twenty minutes an after about 4 hours got through all of them. So seems like the problem is either on the monitor, or some combination between monitor and cabinet. The only wires...

I guess I can unplug the monitor, drop in a ton of credits and try and keep game sounds going and see if it reboots that way.. or maybe if I just crank of the volume there might be some variation in the hum when it reboots.. I never removed any wires that went from the monitor to the frame and...

It does fully reboot- screen goes through all of the test patterns and stuff as though I had suddenly removed/reapplied power to game. Good call on the lights out- I will try that. I recall running into this reboot issue intermittently *before* the flyback exploded a couple years ago-...

Toying with the idea of finding another monitor PCB to swap out- I found someone selling rebuilt ones on ebay- same model as this one, but they are missing this metal shield (see pic).. Is this shield likely specific to the ms pacman use, or would it be standard for the monitor?

Aaarrrgg So it actually *is* still re-booting.. It just takes a long time for it to happen after first turning the machine on from cold- 20-30 minutes. After that the time between re-boots shortens the longer the machine stays on:( From what I could see everything on the bottom of the monitor...

hahah!! Just think of me next time:D

Success ! ! ! ! It's been on 20+ minutes now- no rebooting. I don't know if it was the flyback joint that looked close to bridged, or the loose C303 joint- but everything is back to normal. I cannot thank you enough, DogP for sticking with me on this! When I said the the flyback 'recently'...

OK!! One of the pads of C303 that I had soldered was broken loose!!! I re-did that joint carefully and now the picture is rock solid!!!!!! I am leaving it on now to see if it re-boots (I didn't see anything bad besides that on that back of the monitor PCB- except *maybe* a sloppy solder on one...

Ok- I am diving back in- pulling the monitor PCB to check out all of the solder joints from the cap kit/flyback work, and I just realized the power connector for the monitor has no special shape so it can be connected either way around (see pic).. I put that black line on it to mark the way it's...

Also- the cap kit I got came with extra stuff related to this: http://therealbobroberts.net/g07notes.html I think I pulled C303 and began to remove solder from the hole between it's original holes before I realized I probably did not need to continue with this mod since the game was original...

Ok yeah, with the edge connector attached there is continuity from the pad on the game PCB to both pins on the monitor sync connector.. Something bad on the monitor PCB now?

Doh man! That 100% more sense.. So I'm getting continuity from the pin on the connector through to each pin on the monitor connector.. I tried testing from that thin wire I have stuck through the hole on the game PCB below pin 17 with the connector attached, and I'm not getting continuity, but...

So when you say "monitor side" is that 'parts side' in the pinout? If I'm just testing continuity at the pins in the connector (detached) does that mean I need to bridge 2+3+B+C+17(solder side)? Because when I do that I get no continuity: (there is continuity accross 2/3

For the record i am a little fuzzy on pin numbers as they relate to the parts/solder side of the pcb. there seem to be 44 total connector pads/pins (disregarding the few empty holes in the connector)- but we only keep refering to 1-22. When we talk about pins 2 & 3 do we mean the 2nd and 3rd...

I stuck a wire through 17 and can't get continuity between it and these pads (see pic). But I'm not sure if the wire is contacting through. Should I just be able to pull off the connector and test across the pins in the connector?