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@sirgubster9 how many of these do you need? I literally just ordered a 10 pack of NOS ones off of eBay. It's the part number RV4NAYSD502A that I found on a thread on here that people used as replacements. This is the thread I'm referring to...

I know with Target Terror Gold which I had, there was a dip switch on the IO board that let you set the resolution (CGA, EGA, VGA) and then it would work on any of those monitors if you were set to yours. I had a CGA monitor and it worked fine. I would assume that even though it's trisync it's...

Okay that's good to know. One differing factor is that the NT-2702 is a VGA monitor and not a CGA monitor. I'm not saying that'll work or anything, just something I noticed from your post. The Makvision he currently had is the 2929D which appears to be trisync. But with all this being...

I am not sure what the exact issue is with his monitor, he just told me "it went out and he wanted a backup" so he could mess with it while the other monitor is fixed, and then he would have a backup once they are both working. I don't know for sure, but I am PRETTY sure the monitor plugs into...

Someone was interested in my 27" monitor because his went out in his Big Buck Safari cabinet. However when he came to pick it up he backed out because it didn't have a VGA plug on it and he wanted to take a look at his cabinet to see if it can work. After some googling it does indeed seem the...

Just FYI, you shouldn't be using crossover cables if you are connecting stuff to switches/hubs. You want to just use normal network cables.

Well I don’t know wtf is going on but when I plugged both amps in with the new cables I hardly hear ANYTHING interference wise. I started doing some cleaner wiring and isolating the power cables tuning away from speaker and so far I’ve only done the fronts but there is absolutely no...

Okay I got the ground loop isolator, and it appears to work, BUT there are some very odd side effects, like certain ranges of sound don't play now... Like when I boot up HyperSpin I hear the sonic coin sound no problem. But then some of the various games, the sound is all muffled or just...

The interference starts like half way into Windows booting up. Like when the logo comes up and you see the spinner, a couple seconds after that it starts. If it's not connected to the PC there is no speaker interference. It's hard to explain the sound but I don't know if I'd call it a buzz...

It is like a hum/buzz, and it seems when the PC is "doing stuff" sometimes I hear it more. When the PC isn't "doing stuff" sometimes I also hear this little pulse. I was playing around with it right now and just had some strange findings... I am using a better quality 3.5mm cable as well now...

I'm using even cheaper 5v amps to power two other cabinet speakers running a JPAC and I know people who use this same amp to power virtual pins. I’m also not looking for audiophile quality lol I just want normal arcade quality with no interference.

The other amp does have the same type of interference. I am wondering if I could cut into the 12v coming off of the PC ATX PSU and see if I get any interference with that. EDIT: I just tried 12v from the PC ATX PSU and it had the same kind of interference and may have been worse. But a quick...

I just tagged onto that PSU since I already had it for the motor. But I also removed the motor completely from the picture and see the same noise as I do when it's hooked up. When you say a problem with the switcher, what are you referring to?

As some of you may know, I am in the process of converting my Rush 2049 cabinets into full on racing emulation machines using the original hardware. I have a thread on that here if anyone is interested -...

You can get the CHD from here - https://wowroms.com/en/roms/mame/star-trek-voyager/110010.html

The pic above has the guns plugged in properly based on the board schematics from the manual. I find it hard to believe the guns are both wired wrong though. And the sync pin seems to be correct as well. Could it possibly have to do with the settings where you can change it from pump reload...

It's hard to tell from your pic if the sync wire is on the first or second pin of that connector. Is the wire on the pin closer to where it says J1 or the pin further away from it? The guns themselves look like they are connected properly from that pic though.

Got any pics of your setup that we could see just to know exactly what you've done and are working with? And you have confirmed these guns work with other games? And this may be a dumb question, but are you sure the guns aren't plugged in upside down? I have done that personally on my LE...

If it's Skip/Thomas Hansen, he takes a while to get back to his emails, and the cost of the ibuttons are $300, at least for Police Trainer 2 it was. I passed since I was looking to sell mine anyways and I ended up just selling it as is. $300 for a replacement is just ridiculous IMO.

I had Police Trainer 2 with what I think was a dead iButton on it, but mine would boot into Linux desktop and wouldn't even get into the game. I'm not sure if STV is the same in that sense or not, but it could possibly be something else aside from that.