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They exist for the bottom, but not the top

There are some traces that run under the DAC and can't see exactly what they're going to. They trace back to U17 and U1 and they seemingly connect to the legs of the DAC.

Hey all, checking in - is there anywhere to see the silkscreen for the MKII audio board as we suspect a few topside traces are damaged and want to test! Paging @mecha

Was eyeing the tantalum caps earlier today as a possibility as we got the values of them in needed to order. Will tap back in once the DAC and U11 are replaced

Hey all, just a quick update with this since it's been a minute - Main amp, U37, all new caps, and GAL from another MK2 sound board +new ribbon cable all have been installed. Getting the same issue. I have a U11 that will go in next and also planning on grabbing a U16 (AD1851 NOS). Here is a...

Have not replaced that yet - but definitely on the list to try

Hey all - so update here. Replaced the amp and caps with the Arcade Repair deluxe caps - amp is not getting hot anymore which is good. Sound is still static-y and it's almost as if there's bass that is the static part. Attached the video below so people can hear the popping. Just ordered a U17...

Sound has been working fine for years prior - totally not the issue

Sorry I meant is it possible this could be a symptom of poor soldering? I'm going to go over the joints that are newly soldered again to be sure, but checking to see if this is what the symptom would be and if so, which caps specifically should we keep an eye on?

Appreciate it mecha! Would you know if the overheating is a symptom of cold joints? If so which caps specifically should I focus on?

Bumping this!

Hello from the North Shore!

Wow I actually had no idea Arcade Monsters had a SD location - curious if it's from the same Florida owner

Hey all, could use some help with my MK2 sound board. I've had this cabinet for a few years at this point and up until recently it's been working perfect the few times that it was turned on and played. The other day I fired it up and it was playing fine but felt like the sound was getting lower...

Also noticed the kill switch is a bit worn and not tripping properly when the coin door is closed - any recommended fixes

Much better - thank you all. Will need to manually degauss. First trying to cool off the monitor after we fix this small distortion TheYeti - switcher is still installed

Got power and picture! https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bjCdVxsESzE6HN6SF03UNpqsZo9ApeU8/view?usp=drivesdk Monitor is now showing bad humbar and distorted colors. When the humbars are going, they move one after another. Needs to be degaussed - any ideas?

Yeah the cables for the monitor are connected to the AC/N and AC/L parts of the switcher

Innards in video! https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cnMSfgjPrj2i49sx-doSatRc6w5Uj1xh/view?usp=drivesdk Wugly, where is power SUPPOSED to be coming from since I see the large black cable running to the monitor

This does not use the games original power cord. The unsafe quarter has been removed also. :cool: