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Turns out I didn't need a schematic. Resetting the board to factory settings went a long way, and allowed me to start a game. Next. New sensor from Manny didn't fit, my machine is too old, I think. I had to bend it, use a longer bolt, etc. Made it work. Next. Ordered a sound chip from Poland...

https://www.theplaydiumstore.com/HUC_Motherboard_V1_04_p/hs0031.htm

https://www.theplaydiumstore.com/HUC_Motherboard_V1_04_p/hs0031.htm

I am definitely interested in the boards, possibly the supplies too if the price is right. Those would add to the cost of shipping and difficulty in packing quite a bit, I would think. If Fluxgold doesn't take them, let me know. Thank you.

Thanks anyway, newsherriffintown. I got the correct manual from Natpol on Facebook. I don't know why the guy stopped responding to my emails, but I went on a contact frenzy, and sent messages on social media until someone responded. With the correct manual, I made progress and the game will...

I'm wondering about the schematic you found from Coney Island. It may be what I've been looking for my board. My machine is called Boxer Standard, built by Polish manufacturer DawPol or Natpol.

Another update, I contacted the manufacturer in Poland and someone responded. We haven't gotten together yet because of the time difference, but there's hope.

Just updating here. I did try to short the start button connectors at the board, still won't start a game. I confirmed I was in free play mode, but I was also able to credit through the coin mech. No matter how many credits, it won't start the game. What am I missing here?

Similar to the OP, I believe my board is the same as in some Coney and Punchline machines. Mine is made by Dawpol. Had a service tag from Coney Island on it, from 2012. I have been in touch with and bought a speed sensor and punch bag from Manny Cohen of Coney Island (coneyislandarcade dot com)...

I am looking at one right now with a very similar problem. I have ordered a stepper motor, as I believe that may be the problem. On mine, it would go and get a CD, then lower it, but not quite low enough, causing the CD to flop around when spinning. The tray hesitates right away when it's...

Also currently looking for Boxer parts. Dawpol Boxer? Speed/force sensor completely missing. Looks like 10 pin connector, I think?

Segafan2020, is this still available? I have a pinball machine I may consider trading, or buy outright..

Looking for complete machines working on not, or PCBs, monitors, power supplies (working only), some plastic pieces. I have some arcade parts, PCBs, control panels, etc. If anyone is looking to trade instead of sell outright. Let me know what you've got. Thanks.

This is the only place I know to get this exact PSU: http://www.theplaydiumstore.com/HUC_Power_Supply_306W_24V_p/hs0050.htm I have done a sort of hack before and used separate ATX and 24VDC power supplies, but it was messy getting everything crammed in there under the hood. Also, to ANYONE...

http://www.theplaydiumstore.com/category_s/2196.htm This is the only official source I know to get anything for HUC. I work for a guy that has several in need of graphics cards, but the above seller only sells hard drive with graphics card kits for $239 + shipping. Mobo = $389.95. Your problem...

What motherboards work? I'm curious what you've learned through your experiments and experience. I have a BBHP World that has the old crappy Microtel and I want to replace it as cheaply as possible. Can I just buy an off the shelf 740 Desktop? I keep hearing about some fuse board or something...

Flyback? Ohmerone, do you think this could be a flyback? Where could I find one?

repair sources I guess I need to get this to someone who can handle it. Anyone have any ideas who has the equipment to troubleshoot this? I've replaced a lot of components and haven't made one bit of difference. At least I know I haven't made it worse. Help!

same problem, different chassis I have this exact same problem with a Neotec NT500-DX. I DID replace the transistor that's supposed to control this with NO change at all. Also ALL the electrolytics (58 total!!). Tested many poly/mylar caps also. Found one questionable in same circuit...

No go NO difference with new 1uf 400v poly cap. The menu is still quirky even with the new chip also. I guess it's time to send this chassis to someone who knows what they're doing. I seem to have wasted my time as well as my customer's.