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To me it lookes like you have more issues then just degaussing. You said you was putting it back together and bought the monitor from someone?? I wonder if the yoke got moved??? is it lose? the white lines is that noticiable???? they do not look like raster lines.. Monitor my need some...

Is your WG a multi sync??? can handle std and med res allowing the different board to automatically sync to those boards with out resetting dip switches???? again just throwing it out there..

Wow you assume we dont??? For me its about doing as little as possible to get my game or other people games up and running with minumum expense and time.. Yoke swaping and ring swapping isnt that hard... BUT if you have a tube with all the right stuff GO for it...Shee People that think they know...

Whats the monitor type , do you have a schematic for it? and what do you mean by I make vectors PM me

Iwould have to agree with peale here. but I would add that I woudl be looking for a tube anyway ust in case you want to change it when it does happen. Since they dotn make them any more. GOt lots of help and ask as many question you can before you do a swap. lots to know to do it right with...

I am not a guru but I know that that a go... what i understand if its with in 2 or so its good but if its 10 or more its a no go. GOD BLESS

Schematic and some issues with it I was helping someone on there sanyo and he wasnt the best desolder or solder.. Yes a Newby doing his best GOD bless his soul. The schematic looks like this one but YOU can see it when blown up. Sorry Guy I cant see this one very will maybe this one would be...

If I remember right -v -h and +h +v are for Vga and higher. RGB with sync (composite signal, One wire for both vert.and horz sync) for med or standard ras.. monitors. So if your game just has rgb ground and -h you will use that hook up... I would say yes that is normal for a multi sync monitor...

So what you are trying to do is have a backward picture (MIRROR) as it is know you look at it and it what you would see as a normal monitor(Picture as we see it)...So yea Red and BLack switched should do it. IF you got a dot.. then something isnt right. The only way to kill a yoke is to hook...

just a shot. sound like galaga is std res and you multi is med res is there dip setting to change it to std res??? I dont know just a shot...

The one I made is about 6 " made from an old TV. Vongoosewink You are doing a great job. Just want to answer my own question that the Degauss isnt on all the time only at fire up and yes you did the right thing there by using the one that came with the chassi.. I have many year of experience in...

Wow Sad story when there are some many really good tech out there that CAN FIX you monitor. Arcadecup.com being one of many..most of the time cost about 140.00 plus shipping it there. 10 to 20 bucks. I could fix it but I am way away from you ... Monitors are not that hard. but sorry you have 3...

??? Any tube will work as a vector tube as long as the neck board will contact to it? and teh tube is the right size??? beside the yoke swap...

Just a thought You may have your degaussing wire not close enough to the front of the tube but I dont remember if that wire is live all the time or if it only turns on when power up?? anyone know for sure??

Yea it easy. YOu have the old tv with the on/off switch and the old tv deguassing wire and the plug wire to the old tv. just take the wire and fold it into a small circle. I am building one myself. only I bought the push button (none lock on/off) for it.

Hey I just remembered something. some chassis have two places that you can plug in the yoke see if there is and move it to the other place.

Most yoke wiring is standard. green yellow as a set(dont remember which is hoz. or vert. SORYY) and red and black/blue wires being the other set. these wire run from the tube to the chassi. most the time it is all one plug and can only be plugged in on way. but some time they are seperate plugs...

So you have red green yellow black/blue? red and black/blue as one set and green and yellow the other... sound to me you have to switch the red and black/blue around... did you do that???

I have the schematic for the power supply for an asteroid game but not sure if that the same as your game.. and I am not at where that game is at.

The line could be you have the tube yoke to far back. Next time measure the yoke and rings distance from the end of the tube. just a thought