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I got it working. I had to do the CPS2 volume reset trick. Holding the volume down during boot up, then start upping the volume. Ed

Quick update, I went into the board settings and trying turning Mono/Stereo on and off and it didn't seem to make difference after saving. The menu is all in Japanese, but using a CPS2 manual I navigated to what I assumed was the sound setting.

Hello everyone, it's been a long while since I have been on klov. Many of my arcade projects have been in storage for several years and now I have some time to work on them. Anyway... I have a Dynamo Z-Back I am restoring and I have a CPS2 18-1 board I bought several years ago when they came...

Replaced U701 and it fixed the issue :).

Possible, smalltownguy mentioned he was having the same problem in this thread. The video you took and the one I took of mine doesn't seem similar. My B+ isn't solid, it goes down as the problem starts and goes lower as the problem gets worse. I'm going to read over the other thread and see...

Yeah, I have been over the bottom of the PCB again and again, nothing looks bad at all. Anything that is suspect, I wiggle and jiggle :). I haven't tried hitting it to see if it makes it worse, but it gets worse and worse the longer the monitor is on.

Thanks Cadillacman, I put in a new flyback first thing a while back, so I know it's not those solder joints. I just checked R111 and it's in there tight. R108 wasn't really bad, my ohm meter tested the new the at the same. Maybe my meter can't test below 1.0 very accurately? Anyway, I'll...

Where did you order it from? Looks like it's an LA7851

So I did was Kevin suggested and tested R108. I pulled one leg, set my ohm meter to lowest ohm setting (200) and tested. It came back at 0.8 I assume that is not correct for a .33ohm resistor?

Thanks bud, I tinkered a bit and got it better. I'm going to leave well enough alone now :). Ed

Thanks guys, moved the center adjustment to the center post and did remove the sync I had on pin 7, so now it's just on 10. It's working great now, except for this one corner. Is it a tube thing, or a chassis?

This monitor has a smaller version of this issue when I took it out of the cab. Figured I would try to clean it up. I flipped the chassis over and did the normal inspection, finding 1 cracked solder and fixed it up. At the same time, the Horizontal Width was way to big, the little adjustment...

I have 2 or 3 dead ones. Looking to have a rebuilt one to put in while I repair the other. I think all of mine are 25k7191 Thanks.

Delete Please delete (I can't find out how :)

Resurrecting this thread as I just pulled this monitor out of storage, and I'm going to tackle it again, starting with the last post from Kevin.

Thanks everyone.

I'm going to bump this one time and then let it slip away into oblivion :). Thanks. Ed

I'm guessing this isn't a very common monitor? :)

The tube also has the board on it that the Yoke wires are attached too. Never seen anything like it. Is it for adjusting the ohms on the yoke?

This monitor appears to be fairly new. It ran in one of my cabinets for over a year, well all of a sudden it made a popping sound, with some zips and zaps and died. Now when I power it up, it doesn't do much. Pulled it from the cab and brought it home on my bench. I have little experience...