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The monitor was working before. I replaced the flyback as the screen brightness was pulsing and the flyback housing had cracks in it. Did the cap kit while I had it out and figured I'd just replaced the HOT since it was included in the kit. The original HOT is fine and I still have the...

I'm just confirming the K7915 uses the same flyback as the other K7000 series monitors. I just replaced the flyback, hot and did a full cap kit. Plugged it back in and sizzle, pop. Blew the fuse. No high voltage when discharging the tube to pull it back out. Before I start troubleshooting...

Need it for my APB. Mine is cracked. If I can't find one, I can try and epoxy the old one back together, though it will be missing a chunk. I'm surprised nobody has started 3D printing these yet.

Either way, I belong to a local group of arcade collectors. If I've already tried selling a cabinet whole and if there's no interest locally, why would I want to wait two weeks to part it out to sell it off nationally? Besides, the only thing that this will do is get a whole bunch of people...

So... You're basically going to dictate what people can and can not do with their property? What would the repercussions be of somebody parting out a cabinet without first offering it in whole in this mandatory last call thread?

That's clean as hell. Good pickup.

I think AAE does a pretty good job at reproducing the vector look.

I think you can filter games at MAWS using controller type. I can't verify as work blocks it.

I think everybody keeps forgetting that knipple is new to the hobby. Suggesting a cap kit and new flyback is needed IMHO is a little overboard at this time. There's nothing wrong with the CPO and marquee as far as I can tell either. "If it aint broke, don't fix it." Clean it up, replace the...

Radio Shack will likely not carry the EPROM you are looking for. Your best bet is on the web, but you technically don't need another chip if you erase and reprogram what you already have. You'll only need to change the boot ROM at U98. There are a ton of guys dedicated to this hobby that can...

It may be cheap, but it's an investment none the less. You'll need a programmer and EPROM eraser. If you're just interested in the process, see if somebody local has one you can use. Where are you located?

Discharging a monitor is typically only required for working on the chassis, etc. You'll actually want to adjust the screen voltage while the monitor is on so you can watch it. Your flyback is in the image you posted below. It's the black box with two knobs on it. You can power off your game...

Are you talking about Braze's Multipede kit located here, or something else? Oh, nevermind. Noticed it's the Midway one.

That's cool. Here's the IPDB listing.

You can find information on CF replacement here, including the CHD and boot ROM. The non standard screws would likely be security torx bit screws. That's what's on mine. You can pick up a set at Harbor Freight. The buttons and joysticks will need to come off as well to get the acrylic off...

Have you tried starting a game or checking the volume? Maybe silent attract mode is turned on, or the volume is all the way down.

Replace your coin battery on your first board, or swap it with your second since it doesn't give the error. Do you get a bong on the second board during power up?

My power wires are yellow and black. I did not determine how to manually change the game once the remote worked after applying the 12V. Below is a pic of the receiver out of it's box. Notice the relay is marked for 14V? You may want to open yours to make sure it's the same. I'd hate to give...

Looks like a Double Dragon to me...

You had mentioned you enabled the Q-Sound option in the setup. I thought this was only to display the Q-Sound logo and chime in attract mode. You did go into output and verify it's set to stereo? I think it's set to stereo by default. Have you reset factory defaults and tried it?